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All Locations > California > Central Coast > San Luis Obispo > Bishop Peak > Midnight Spire
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ID 106965073 · · Copyright Violation?
<br> A. Aurora Borealis 5.10d or A1 13 bolts (in about 30’!). To access the base of this climb, drop down from the notch and work your way counterclockwise around the Spire. Look for a belay bolt down low to protect your belayer from falling over the steep drop. Good aid practice. Note - it looks harder than 5.10d, but give it a try and let me know. FA (on aid) – Jeff Herbst & Kenny Craig, 1995. FA (free) – Ken Klis 1996.<br> <br> B. Milky Way 5.9 * 4 bolts. An interesting climb that you should do at least once. Crux is between bolts 1 and 2. You can tie in your belayer via a bolt on the block at the base of the route. FA – Jeff Herbst & Kenny Craig, 1995.<br> <br> C. Full Moon (Original Start) 5.9 * 2 bolts + small to medium gear. Start at the “bush” and go straight up past 2 bolts. Bring a couple cams and long slings to protect the upper portion. An interesting route that wanders through several cracks and ledges. The crux is getting past the first bolt. A fun route worth doing at least once. Nice way to reach the top of the spire. Lead bolts and anchor replaced in 2009. FA – Jeff Herbst & Kenny Craig, 1995. <br> <br> C.1. Ramp Start (Variation) 5.6/5.7 * 2 bolts + small to medium gear. Start on the ramp to the right of the original start for “Full Moon” then join the route at bolt 2. Bring a couple cams and long slings to protect the upper section. You can make it harder by climbing direct or easier by wandering up the various ramps and ledges. <br> <br> D. Spire Access 5.4 Small to medium gear. Simply a way to get to the top if you want to set up a top rope. Protect with gear or scramble to the top making one exposed 5.4 move. <br> <br> E. Unknown Trad Route 5.6 Small to medium gear. This route is located on the south side of the spire (overlooking Foothill Blvd.). Continue up the left trending, crack/ramp to the anchors. There may be another TR on this side of the Spire that drops straight down from the anchors. <br>
Topping out on Full Moon (5.9)
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Brian Prince
Nov 18, 2010
“on top”  

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Topping out on Full Moon (5.9)
Midnight Spire Access Route - Head to P-Wall, then take a left. Work your way along Jam Crack Wall, then drop down when you get to the notch. The north side of the spire has the two most popular routes.
<br> A. Aurora Borealis 5.10d or A1 13 bolts (in about 30’!). To access the base of this climb, drop down from the notch and work your way counterclockwise around the Spire. Look for a belay bolt down low to protect your belayer from falling over the steep drop. Good aid practice. Note - it looks harder than 5.10d, but give it a try and let me know. FA (on aid) – Jeff Herbst & Kenny Craig, 1995. FA (free) – Ken Klis 1996.<br> <br> B. Milky Way 5.9 * 4 bolts. An interesting climb that you should do at least once. Crux is between bolts 1 and 2. You can tie in your belayer via a bolt on the block at the base of the route. FA – Jeff Herbst & Kenny Craig, 1995.<br> <br> C. Full Moon (Original Start) 5.9 * 2 bolts + small to medium gear. Start at the “bush” and go straight up past 2 bolts. Bring a couple cams and long slings to protect the upper portion. An interesting route that wanders through several cracks and ledges. The crux is getting past the first bolt. A fun route worth doing at least once. Nice way to reach the top of the spire. Lead bolts and anchor replaced in 2009. FA – Jeff Herbst & Kenny Craig, 1995. <br> <br> C.1. Ramp Start (Variation) 5.6/5.7 * 2 bolts + small to medium gear. Start on the ramp to the right of the original start for “Full Moon” then join the route at bolt 2. Bring a couple cams and long slings to protect the upper section. You can make it harder by climbing direct or easier by wandering up the various ramps and ledges. <br> <br> D. Spire Access 5.4 Small to medium gear. Simply a way to get to the top if you want to set up a top rope. Protect with gear or scramble to the top making one exposed 5.4 move. <br> <br> E. Unknown Trad Route 5.6 Small to medium gear. This route is located on the south side of the spire (overlooking Foothill Blvd.). Continue up the left trending, crack/ramp to the anchors. There may be another TR on this side of the Spire that drops straight down from the anchors. <br>
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