|
Tom Grummon
·
Nov 16, 2010
·
Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 30
I'm a poor college student looking to build a rack and I was curious how had it is to go (or at least start off) with all passive pro. Obviously a set of stoppers and hexes won't cut it at the creek, but what about the south platte or other front range areas? Thanks, Tom
|
|
Scott McMahon
·
Nov 17, 2010
·
Boulder, CO
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 1,425
|
|
mattnorville Norv
·
Nov 17, 2010
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2007
· Points: 90
|
|
Greg D
·
Nov 17, 2010
·
Here
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 883
Climbers were doing first ascents for decades before cams were invented. You will be fine and more skilled than others if you climb on passive gear only for a while.
|
|
JSlack
·
Nov 17, 2010
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 155
Greg D wrote:Climbers were doing first ascents for decades before cams were invented. You will be fine and more skilled than others if you climb on passive gear only for a while. +1 I wish I had started trad climbing back when I got my first set of nuts. Instead I waited a year until I got some cams. Waste of time! There are plenty of things that you can lead safely on passive pro. Especially when you are just getting into the game. Happy Climbing!
|
|
bearbreeder
·
Nov 17, 2010
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 3,065
any moderate route can be led with a set of tricams and nuts ...
|
|
H BL
·
Nov 17, 2010
·
Colorado
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 95
Greg D wrote:Climbers were doing first ascents for decades before cams were invented. You will be fine and more skilled than others if you climb on passive gear only for a while. +2.. I learned how to clean and then lead on nuts & hexes. They were old so was my mentor!!! Once I was able to build my own rack I started with nuts and hexes, leading at the Gunks and up in NH. When I got my first cam, it was like WOW!! Then I refined my rack to tri-cams (which used to be cheaper) and cams. Haven't used my hexes in while but it's a great skill to learn and will make you a more confident leader because you really have to think about placement on route and when creating belay station. Think about this.... How many first ascenters did bold leads in hobnailed boots while hammering in pitons, tied into a hemp rope? I'm not talking easy sh*& either.
|
|
Tony B
·
Nov 17, 2010
·
Around Boulder, CO
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 24,665
Eldo and Bocan both take nuts very well. Pear Buttress is a GREAT moderate climb to do at Lumpy on nuts.
|
|
Rick Blair
·
Nov 17, 2010
·
Denver
· Joined Oct 2007
· Points: 266
West face routes on Castle Rock can be lead with nuts and hexes, those cracks eat hexes like crazy. You won't miss cams there at all.
|
|
Dustin B
·
Nov 28, 2010
·
Steamboat
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 1,275
|
|
Angela Limbach
·
Nov 28, 2010
·
Milwaukee, WI
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 5
Add some tricams and you're golden!
|
|
Charles Danforth
·
Nov 30, 2010
·
L'ville, CO
· Joined Aug 2003
· Points: 170
I learned entirely on passive gear and am probably a better climber because of it. There's nothing nicer than a well-placed hex. That said, I wouldn't give up my cams. They're faster and more secure in marginal placements and when you're pumped out. Buy a passive rack and start adding cams when you can afford it.
|