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Fountain of Youth
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 14
votes
Routes in East Ridge
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Babyback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Edgemaster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Everpresent Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Exile S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Fluorescent Gray T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Fountain of Youth T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Galactic Warrior T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Haywire T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Ilga Grimpeur S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Iron Cross T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kent's Krack T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Knack, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Lightning Bolt Arete T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stealth Slab Downclimb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Superguide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport |
| FA: | George Hurley and Bill DeMaille, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 3,348 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Michael Walker on Sep 30, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
If you're in the climbing game for spectacular position, good pro, and interesting climbing, then this climb is a winner. Add in the lack of crowds (or people at all), beautifully colored rock, and an abundance of good climbing near-by and this climb should be on your "someday" list. The draw backs? Seasonal wildlife closures for half the year (February 1 - July 31st typically), and an arduous approach (like 1 hour and a half with a full pack, that is if you know where to find this climb. Expect a longer approach if this is your first time). There are no "trails" to this area - just social/wildlife paths once you leave the Fern Canyon trail.
The Fountain of Youth is located on the third major arete (from the top) in the area known as the Dihedrals on the East Ridge. Begin with the same crack as The Knack (see that route description). Climb the best part of The Knack (the flip-flop corner) and arrive at a shelf above a wide crack (your #4 is now below your feet). The bolts on the arete to your right are your goal. To reach the first bolt, traverse out a horizontal crack which will take a great small tri-cam. Climb up past two more bolts, along the face left of the arete. The crux is a tricky move up the arete itself at the last bolt. Awesome position and delicate climbing along the arete.
Rap from a two bolt anchor at the top.
The Fountain of Youth is located on the third major arete (from the top) in the area known as the Dihedrals on the East Ridge. Begin with the same crack as The Knack (see that route description). Climb the best part of The Knack (the flip-flop corner) and arrive at a shelf above a wide crack (your #4 is now below your feet). The bolts on the arete to your right are your goal. To reach the first bolt, traverse out a horizontal crack which will take a great small tri-cam. Climb up past two more bolts, along the face left of the arete. The crux is a tricky move up the arete itself at the last bolt. Awesome position and delicate climbing along the arete.
Rap from a two bolt anchor at the top.
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