Best cold weather/mountaineering/belay GLOVES?

I realize there has been much discussion on MP on the topic of ice climbing gloves, handwear systems for belaying, etc. However my question is specific: What's the best GLOVE out there for sitting around in COLD temps?

I understand that a mitten is the warmest option (I have BD Mercury Mitts) but I'm interested in finding something with more dexterity that is almost as warm. This would be a glove that I could put on at belays and be able to manage ropes and gear. Ideally this glove would replace my belay mitts. I don't plan to climb in such a glove as it will probably just wet out with exertion, and would probably suck to place gear on lead with. Again I have a pretty good glove system for climbing, this would be for belaying or sitting around in camp.

I have used BD Enforcers with success, but I would not put them in the category of super warm belay glove. I imagine the OR Alpine Alibi's are similar to BD Enforcers. I have noticed that both the BD Guide Glove and the OR Alti Glove might be some of the warmest gloves on the market before moving to a full blown mitten. I have tried on the BD Guides and thought they fit very well. Any opinions on these gloves? How about the Mountain Hardwear Medusa? Lou Dawson likes them wildsnow.com/2157/mountain-… What gloves do high altitude climbers wear...if they're not wearing mittens?

Can anyone shed some light? After further research it seems like another top contender is the Hestra Heli glove. One thing to note is that the BD Guide Glove has no wrist strap or idiot cord, but I like the fact that it has wool in the liner.

Go to Ace Hardware and get a pair of Kincos, you'll never go back and everyone will try and steal them.

I just looked...they're only like $12 per pair...If I can't spend at least $90 for a pair of gloves, then I'm not buying them..... seriously, I found the best pair of mixed gloves at a sports authority....some kind of burton snowboarding glove with a rubber palm for $20...and I have about 12 pair of diffrent gloves that I've tried(just ask my wife, she reminds me every year). I'm heading to Ace!

It looks like the glove your looking for is the new Arcteryx Alpha SV glove, just came out. From what the rep tells me they're amazing. New crazy design that's supposed to have unbelievable dexterity for a cold weather glove. The problem...ridiculous price tag at $275.

i think that kincos would work well if you're not IN snow. if you're spending more time in fresh or wet snow you might want a gore tex glove.

You need to realize that there is a continuum of handwear options spanning the warmth vs dexterity spectrum. At one extreme you have very thin, very chilly gloves that you can literally pick up a dime with; a delight to lead with on warmer days. At the other extreme are down expedition mittens that'll keep you toasty at 30 below. There is no "warmest glove" IMO. You need to find the fattest things that let you do the gear manipulation that you have in mind (belaying, zipping up jackets, handling biners, or merely twisting a doorknob). I personally find that one-size-too-large gloves with a wool liner inside are quite toasty.

Gunkiemike, I am very aware of the spectrum you're talking about. That's why my question is specific. What are some of the fattest gloves you know of?

Beagle thanks for the Kincos suggestion, I'll check those out. Nick I recently heard about the new Arcteryx gloves...and had a similar reaction: no way am I shelling out that kind of money. However it will be interesting to see some reviews of those gloves after a solid season.

So my question stands...anyone used the gloves I mentioned initially? Cold and high mountain climbers, what's your cold weather glove of choice?

you can waterproof kincos and they work well in snow conditions, just not super dextris. I just got some BD predator gloves and I love them.

Rab makes great gloves my favorite are the latok glove. warm and waterproof with Event liners. They aren't really expensive either... I don't think you can beat a leather work glove really weather-proofed with snowseal or other waterproofing agent. Wore leather work gloves for two years working in southeast alaska up on the glaciers and for several years working ski resorts. I always got funny looks but they worked as long as it wasn't too cold or wet. I would just buy a leather work glove and wear a liner in it. Now I like a lot of you have a bin of gloves because I am looking for that holy "grail" that I don't think exsists-My Rab Latok is probably the closest that I have come... Yet.
Dallen

For the last 5 or so years of the 15 I've been climbing ice I've come to love my Filson leather wool lined gloves.........

For belaying I still prefer a glove to a mitt, as if it's uber cold the gloves stay on for climbing.....something that is difficult to do with mitts on....

BUT belaying your not producing heat, so a thicker longer glove that comes up over your jacket is prefered.....I'm currently using the BD Guide.........

But for all else on the frozen medium.......Filson......

To partially answer the original question, I summited Manaslu and Everest in Hestra Heli gloves. I carried a pair of OR Alti Mitts as backup but never needed them. The Hestras aren't gore-tex which I didn't find to be a problem in the dry cold conditions of altitude but in wet conditions I've totally soaked them. I'm not saying there's anything magic about them but they are very dexterous and are probably the glove I saw most sherpas using. I'm sure there are warmer gloves out there but these are a pretty good compromise between dexterity and warmth and the price isn't too bad either.

BD Mercury mitt is the best out there, fo sho. 'Cheap' ($80) AND warmer than all else. Kincos are nice till it gets much below freezing, though the locals around here wear them year round on the slopes, regardless. And Kincos are what all mountain ops employees wear for making snow and grooming and glading and the works. Wax them, of course, cuz they're leather. Warm 'em in the dryer and rub a good waterproofing treatment in every few weeks.

The Mercury mitt goes on and off easy and feels like a cute little lab puppy turned inside-out; perfect for belaying and skiing and the tough leather palm will take lotsa raps