The Cassin Ridge

I'm planning a trip to Denali in May 2011 and hope to climb the Cassin Ridge. Any advice on logistics, equipment, or training for this intense route? Any first hand info on Denali?

Thanks,
JL

Get in touch with Avery Nelson here--he did it a few years
back and surely can give you some good info!!!

Sounds great! What's the best way to reach him?

I posted a video about the expedition on the NOLS site:
"The Cassin Ridge" nols.edu/contest/

Thank you!

climbed the cassin in 2000, if it is your first time to the Alaska range or more importantly first time on Denali, then keep in mind that the cassin the first time out is a lofty endeavour. The NPS will also counsel you on that when you have your intake with the rangers. In light of that, the climb is not technically that difficult, (if you are strong on near vertical ice and mixed terrain with a heavy pack), but the weather is more stable in May, but colder. I recommend descending the west rib to get to the base of the japanese couloir, while you are acclimating on the west butt, the topo on MP is actually pretty good and Colby Coombs book is also a good resource, in 2000 we used Mike Covingtons old topo and that worked out pretty well. equipment: can't remember exactly, but a handful of screws, standard rack, pickets. hope this helps

SuperTopo has a free topo and beta for the Cassin Ridge:

Cassin Ridge

In 2005 we failed on the Cassin. Part of our downfall was the technically challenging conditions we found trying to downclimb the West Rib. The route was very firm snow to soft alpine ice for 1000s of vertical feet.

If I try the Cassin again - I would acclimatize on the West Butt to the 17,000' camp - probably leave a stash there - and maybe another stash at the 14,000' camp - then approach the climb the normal way.

Training - we didn't train enough ice climbing with a heavy pack on. Find WI3 terrain and climb it with a 40 pound pack.

Wally

This is all really helpful info. Thank you!

Wally wrote:Find WI3 terrain and climb it with a 40 pound pack. Wally

JLo wrote:Any first hand info on Denali?

TDog wrote: These questions you ask, lead me to say "You will be in WAY over your head!!"

I'm thinking by now the original poster has been persuaded to change his plans, but if not, here's more reading:

supertopo.com/tr/Climbing-t…

Definitely for big boys and girls only.

Yeah, Mark and I climbed it in '01. There are probably other folks better qualified to give you advice with more recent information, but if you still want to do it, I'm happy to help.

By the way, we descended 75% of the West Rib, and it is a great route that is much more secluded and interesting than the WButt without the difficulty and commitment level of the Cassin. It might be a good plan B.

Thanks for all the info and advice. I really appreciate your feedback. I will do my best to make use of the resources you provided and will work my hardest to prepare. I'm already training every free moment of every day. See ya out there.

JL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAHn8SJoDUU

Alright, so I watched your video. I assume since making that you've gained a bit more experience. From what I saw was a lot of top roping on very short pitches of WI 3 and very easy rock climbing. You'll need to become way more proficient in both areas to succeed and be happy.

If you want to train do this: put on a 55lb pack, the sloppiest boots you can find, mittens, and do Whitney Gillman 4-5 times a weekend every weekend til you leave. It may also help to put a plastic bag over your head while climbing.

Good luck, you'll probably do fine, die, or curl up in a ball at 14,4 and tell everyone that comes by for two weeks that you're doing the Cassin but just waiting for that perfect window but today is too-----.

My experience, most people get humbled on their first AK experience and will gravitate toward the easiest way out.

Wally -- that was a nasty year for sure. Damn near wore out the crampons and calves just descending the WR over a day and a half (versus the planned half-day).

TDog, Fat Dad, and roddack -- I assume you guys have all been up the route since you're trying to persuade JLo out of the climb?

Keep at your training JLo, and do a zillion calf raises before you leave. Make sure you're technically to the point of being able to lead WI3+/4- with a pack, feel comfortable on some rock and snow+ice over rock in crampons, and have all the other glacier/big-mountain skills down pat before you go jump on it. Be aware that depending on conditions and your location, backing down the Japanese Couloir (technical crux) could be spicy. As to climbing the WB as your first Alaska objective, you should really go up to 17K to put in a cache anyhow -- so in my book that is your chance to tour the WB. One note: In a storm the descent from the summit to 17K could be tricky, if you haven't traveled it.

Mike is right about the WR being a worthy objective, should your team or the weather decide the CR won't pan out.

Cheers

PS: Next time, just ask if you want to use a photo.

I did the route in 2008, which seemed like a good year based on the number of other parties on it and the ease with which we climbed it (post acclimatizing). We were a group of 6 so were able to go in rather heavy (~200 lbs/person). It took us 1wk to get to 14k (double and triple carrying) which was probably the hardest part. We spent a total of 4 wks on the mtn and acclimatized on the West Butt (to ~18k) and the Upper West Rib (to ~19k). After all that the Cassin felt easy, but we all had a solid foundation of winter climbing out west. With that I'll throw some advice into the hat for your consideration b/c you'll likely get as many opinions as you get responses...

1. The West Butt does get you into Denali shape, but won't make up for a lack of technical winter climbing experience and a good weather window/luck.

2. The mtn weather forecasts suck in my opinion and sound the same every day. We lucked out and were able to feed a guide from WY enough good scotch to convince him to call the Teton meteorologist for a real forecast (thanks again Jeff!).

3. If you're still in the NE I would suggest doing some long days in the hill/link ups of technical climbs (i.e. all the routes in Huntington in a day, a fast/light Presidential traverse and some climbing at Willoughby). You've already been up high so spend time developing your technical climbing and pushing your grades on mixed and ice.

4. Logistics - spend nearly as much time figuring out how logistically you're going to climb the mtn as you do working on how you're going to technically climb the mtn. Think about different scenarios, there is a ton of info on the AK range out there, it's not like you're going somewhere off the radar.

As a side note I'll be in MA for the holidays and am always looking for a climbing partner, send me a pm and maybe we can meet up...