SHould this person be climbing?

Dan Godshall wrote:Check out the legendary John Dunne...hovering somewhere around 180 ~ 190, no one was telling him not to climb! EDIT:Darn Kachoong...just beat me to it.

Sorry if the numbers are a bit "soft". I got my info from the "Fat Climbers - Where Are They Now?" Series which listed Mr Dunne at 85kg ~ 187lbs.

Chris Drover wrote: See, statements like this make me think "Should THIS person be climbing?"

This has to be a troll right?! Blah Blah fat blah KN blah load test blah cam blah rope strech. Got it?

I am 6-2, 235. I will take that over any of you scrawny 5-6 120 lbers. Geeez, does EVERY climber have to be skinny runt?

SlowTrad wrote: What scares me is falling on fixed gear, pins specifically, in Eldorado Canyon.

Our Physics lesson for the day:

1KN=225lbf (pounds-force)

10KN=2,250lbf (a whole lotta pound-force)

A stationary object applies approx its weight in lb's to an anchor.

Bouncing around applies typically double.

Falling on an anchor doesn't typically apply a massive amount of lbf unless 3 things occur. First, you have a fixed belay (rope tied off, no belay device). Second, a factor 2 fall. Third, you fall on static rope or webbing (stuff will break). Dynamic rope, rope slip at the belay and many, many other factors will reduce forces felt at the highest anchor (and by the climber).

To the OP. Most replies made it sound like you asked a silly question. Most of the replies gave silly responses (sorry guys).

There are many factors that determine the load on your gear. Body weight is one of them, and it is a significant one.

Physics lesson for tomorrow (since today's was already given):

Factor drop length(m) Test Weight(lb) Impact force(lbf) Impact force (kn)
1.7.......... 4.8 ..................176 .......................1866.................8.3
1.7.......... 4.8 ..................200 .......................2038.................9.1
1.7.......... 4.8 ..................225 .......................2261.................10.1
1.7.......... 4.8 ..................250 .......................2499.................11.1
1.7.......... 4.8 ..................276 .......................2740.................12.2

In an identical scenario, the 225 lb climber will exert roughly 20 % more force on his top piece. The 276 lb climber exceeds the 12 kn UIAA limit.

Body weight is a significant factor. Every heavy climber should be aware of this.

coryred797 wrote:So I was out the other day climbing and noticed a fairly big guy leading. Lets call him climber "a". He was about 5'11 240ish not fat, but definitely big, think NFL linebacker build. Anyways I was kinda scared watching him lead. he made a so so move on a 5.9 line and thought to myself, jeez if that guy fell would the cam hold? I was under the impression cams were tested and rated to a 180 lb person. Would he have pulled his pro if he fell? I talked to him after and said jeez that looked kinda scary. He replied, yeah I usually ice climb. I replied ICE CLIMB??? aren't you a little big to be ice climbing? He said nah I do just fine and snickered. His second climber "b" said dude he's been climbing forever and been fine. I just walked away. Do you think, assuming his pro was placed good, he would pop it? Do you really think he should be leading on ice? Not trying to pick on the guy but I was concerned and it got me thinking... I leave it to you guys, GO.

Layton Kor = Colossus?

Colossus, on pins, in Eldo.

Colin Simon wrote:Layton Kor = Colossus? Colossus, on pins, in Eldo.

Cota wrote: I have taken at least thirty falls over 30 feet on trad gear, and have never pulled a piece

I'm a heavy climber (big bones brah) but I am fully aware of the fall forces that I can generate and take that into consideration when placing gear and climbing above said gear. I would be much bigger if I didn't climb.

One benefit of being heavy is more down pressure for the slabs!

OH MY GOD I'M ONLY 140 LBS!!! I need to gain 40 lbs or I'M GONNA DIE!!!

Greg D wrote:To the OP. Most replies made it sound like you asked a silly question. Most of the replies gave silly responses (sorry guys). There are many factors that determine the load on your gear. Body weight is one of them, and it is a significant one. Physics lesson for tomorrow (since today's was already given): Factor drop length(m) Test Weight(lb) Impact force(lbf) Impact force (kn) 1.7.......... 4.8 ..................176 .......................1866.................8.3 1.7.......... 4.8 ..................200 .......................2038.................9.1 1.7.......... 4.8 ..................225 .......................2261.................10.1 1.7.......... 4.8 ..................250 .......................2499.................11.1 1.7.......... 4.8 ..................276 .......................2740.................12.2 In an identical scenario, the 225 lb climber will exert roughly 20 % more force on his top piece. The 276 lb climber exceeds the 12 kn UIAA limit. Body weight is a significant factor. Every heavy climber should be aware of this.

I'm sure mathmatically and theoretically there's alot of info everyone can provide, but I've spent alot of time DISSUADING people that they were too fat/large etc. to climb. Typcially this is something people like claim due to fear and performance anxiety.

This is probably the first time I've ever heard this come out of the mouth of a climber directed at ANOTHER person and I have to say I'm a little dissapointed. I've always like to encourage people to climb, and scientific or not I don't like the thought that this is a sport for people under 180lbs. Not only that but I've seen some larger folks CRANK..way harder than my fat *ss I ever will.

I mean I'm like 180lbs. So if I gain 5lbs will I have to sell all my gear??

Cota wrote: Really??? I am 187, with very little body fat, I hung out with John way back, and he is way bigger than me. Oh, and I have taken at least thirty falls over 30 feet on trad gear, and have never pulled a piece

my best friend is not fat but he's built like a construction worker/logger (two of his past jobs) and he leads 11's without a problem (gunks 11's) but spends most of his time now climbing bold alpine routes in Co.
Not all climbers are thin and whippy.

oh, and if you commented about "should you be climbing" to him, despite him having a heart of gold, he'd most likely head butt you.

I am about 6'7'' 280lbs. I trad lead rock and LOVE climbng ice. Granted I will never climb anything more than a 10a, I literally trust all the gear I own with my life. This stuff could hold a truck. I took one small lead fall on a blue TCU and had no issues. If you know how to place gear, weight shouldnt be an issue.

Saw some short squat, dark, very thick (read that fat) ethnic climbers doing smooth 5.10b which I never ever thought they would get off the ground on. Harnesses hardly fit them, gut roll hid the buckle!!,,, but they could climb for some odd reason. Go figure.