Beta. Englishman Route in green. Better than Love/Love Route in blue.

All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Hallett Peak > Englishman's Route (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

Beta. Englishman Route in green. Better than Love/Love Route in blue.

ID 106930705 ·

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Englishman's Route (the way we went).<br>
Photo by Blitzo.

Craig Blankenship's photo with route lines drawn in: Love Route (yellow), Better than Love (red), Englishman's Route (blue, two finishes shown). Note that I have not done the upper part of the Love route so this may not be exact (the two climbers in the photo are on the Love route, however). The other lines I have done.

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5.0 from 5 votes

Aaron Rasmussen

Oct 19, 2010

“Beta. Englishman Route in green. Better than Love/Love Route in blue.”

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Beta. Englishman Route in green. Better than Love/Love Route in blue.

Craig Blankenship's photo with route lines drawn in: Love Route (yellow), Better than Love (red), Englishman's Route (blue, two finishes shown). Note that I have not done the upper part of the Love route so this may not be exact (the two climbers in the photo are on the Love route, however). The other lines I have done.

A photo route overlay of Englishman's Route.

This photo is copied from Blitzo. It shows how we varied up to and above the big terrace at mid-height. We followed the same line for the last pitch as in Jim Berg's description, which is also highlighted in red. Also, at the very top of the wall, it is easy to angle left and top out. However, we traversed back right and up through a steep slab and through a final roof. This was cool but exciting as there was rope drag and just a little pro.

"Big Bob" LaGrange atop the "integrale" of Love and Englishman's Routes, June, 1961.

Nearing the first belay, with Emerald Lake below.

Nate A. leading off pitch 6, the money photo pitch of the route.

Pitch 5. The arcing corner continues.

Pitch 2 in late spring - not that hard to climb around the snow.

Looking up pitch 4, the start of the arcing corner.

Looking up pitches 2+3.

Looking up pitch 1.

The route starts in the diagonal corner system.

Bill Weiss nearing the top of the first pitch of the arching corner system above the big terrace. You can see much of this pitch face climbs to the right of the corner.

Bill Weiss topping out in the large dihedral on the bottom half of the route. We stepped right onto the big terrace, then did an angling traverse up and left to gain access to the large arching corner which defines the route.

Exit of pitch 6.

Bill Weiss in the middle of the second arching corner pitch.

The end of our third pitch. Three pitches below you can see a dude with a red helmet and blue shirt on the white band. He is on the Culp-Bossier route.

Todd leading the second pitch.

Bill Weiss under the bulge at the top of the arching corner.

Old piton en route.

Englishman's Route (the way we went).<br>
Photo by Blitzo.

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