Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Paul Cobb, Tom McMillan - 1972 |
Page Views: | 6,363 total · 36/month |
Shared By: | Will Copeland on Oct 12, 2009 |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
P1 (5.7)- Climb up a series of cracks about 50 feet to a bolt. Proceed right, below some shrubery. Clip into an anchor built from the shrub and a wrapped rock. Looked solid as of october 2009. The guidebook says there are bolts for anchors but I couldn't find them anywhere.
P2 (5.6)- Climb up 35 feet and up over a roof into a 5.4 section. It was (october 2009)very mossy, wet, and covered in lichen so watch your footing. Pitch ends in a tunnel leading to a very large ledge. Again, be careful, if it has rained recently the tunnel going up will be very slick.
P3 (5.7)- no need for anchor at the belay. climb up a corner (good spots for larger cams, BD-C4 #1,2,3), then over and around 200 feet to 2 bolts for an anchor.
P4 (5.2)- walk/climb to two more bolts about 30 feet up. From here you can walk to the left to the summit trail (1 mile) that takes you back to the parking lot. You could also rap down, but it's much quicker to walk back down and around to the bottom of the crag.
P2 (5.6)- Climb up 35 feet and up over a roof into a 5.4 section. It was (october 2009)very mossy, wet, and covered in lichen so watch your footing. Pitch ends in a tunnel leading to a very large ledge. Again, be careful, if it has rained recently the tunnel going up will be very slick.
P3 (5.7)- no need for anchor at the belay. climb up a corner (good spots for larger cams, BD-C4 #1,2,3), then over and around 200 feet to 2 bolts for an anchor.
P4 (5.2)- walk/climb to two more bolts about 30 feet up. From here you can walk to the left to the summit trail (1 mile) that takes you back to the parking lot. You could also rap down, but it's much quicker to walk back down and around to the bottom of the crag.
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