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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Gate Buttress
> Beckey's Wall Area
Split Decision
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
Routes in Beckey's Wall Area
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"Elementary Dear Watson" T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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3rd Crack Over T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Axis of Evil Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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baloney on white T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Beckey's Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cheetah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Date with Fate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Date With Kate T X |
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East of Eden T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Fingertrip Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fruit Loops T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fudd Ledge Left Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hesitate No More T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Hesitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Independent Streak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Last Caress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Needle's Eye Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Orange Sling, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shaken Climber Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Siesta T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Split Decision T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Split Fingers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Split Pants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sweet Jane Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tarzan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tingey's Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tingey's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tingey's Torture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tourist Variation (Split Pants) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Unknown Funky Wide Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Watergate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | F. A. Mark Mcquarrie & Paul Anderson, 1965 |
| Page Views: | 1,143 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Todd Green on Mar 31, 2010 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
A wide crack that requires alternating between delicate smears on the face and high-stepping, power-underclings on the crack while trying to find good stances to place large gear.
Starting from the 2nd pitch of Split Pants you'll be able to get a hand-size piece in above your belay before you get into the meat of the off width. Step up and place a large piece (I only had a #6 that was tipped out). From there you can either layback or use some crimps and smear the face. I chose the latter. Proceed to work up the crack until it slightly narrows and you can place a final piece in order to pull around the corner. From that stance you can either place a BigBro or a TCU. Work up the chimney a bit more and you can find a nice 00 placement. From that point the climbing eases as you head up a gully until you reach some foliage. Look out to the left and you'll see a set of chain anchors. Pull up onto the slab and do some easy friction moves and then follow the rap for Pebbles and Bambam. Note that these are not the P&B anchors and a single 70m will not get you down to Beckey's.
Starting from the 2nd pitch of Split Pants you'll be able to get a hand-size piece in above your belay before you get into the meat of the off width. Step up and place a large piece (I only had a #6 that was tipped out). From there you can either layback or use some crimps and smear the face. I chose the latter. Proceed to work up the crack until it slightly narrows and you can place a final piece in order to pull around the corner. From that stance you can either place a BigBro or a TCU. Work up the chimney a bit more and you can find a nice 00 placement. From that point the climbing eases as you head up a gully until you reach some foliage. Look out to the left and you'll see a set of chain anchors. Pull up onto the slab and do some easy friction moves and then follow the rap for Pebbles and Bambam. Note that these are not the P&B anchors and a single 70m will not get you down to Beckey's.
Location
Hike to the base of the dihedrals and then do the first two pitches (great strung together as a long pitch) of Split Pants. Stop at the piton and build a natural anchor. P3 of Split Pants continues to the right, the Needle's Eye goes straight up the squeeze chimney and Split Decision follows left side of the wide crack.
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