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Mad Rock Rubber Question

Original Post
Ben Cassedy · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 315

Wondering if anyone has any opinions on mad rock science friction 2.0 rubber vs their regular rubber. I have a pair of mugens (old rubber) and am not very impressed with the rubber. Wondering if the 2.0 is much of an improvement.

Thanks!

George Heib · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 30

Lets just say I had two different pairs of concepts and the new 2.0 DDS rubber blew threw in less than a month in the gym...grated this was way back when I was a noob in the gym with poor footwork so I blamed it on that. It has been two years now and I have yet to blow threw any other company's shoe. The Madrock rep said it was because they are for outdoor climbing only...about a week ago a good friend of mine that has been climbing much longer said he had a pair of 2.0 DDS soles and loved them, but they blew threw in just three outdoor sessions and he is an experienced climber. Needless to say I do not recommend them. You get what you pay for I guess. Evolv, Sportiva and Fiveten are the way to go. Not a fan of Scarpa shoes but might be because of how they fit my foot or slop out way to fast in the summer even when you get them as tight as possible. Had a pair of scarpas only to have them slop out, then a friend used them (40euro). He is usually a 41.5 size and they fit him, but two weeks later they slopped out of his foot as well go figure.

JRohde · · Dutch John, UT · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 105

i had a pair of the new mugens that were great. lasted about 6 months. i decided to get a new pair, since you can find them pretty cheap, and the rubber literally rolled off the shoe until there was a hole in a matter of a only month. i would NOT advise getting the new mugens or anything with mad rocks 2.0 rubber. hope that helps.

smithygreg · · Portland,OR · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 70

My partner has gotten no less than 3 free pairs of Mugen Techs because the rubber blew out so quickly on them. He just brought them into the shop and they took them back and gave him a new pair. Apparently they had a bad batch of rubber. Not sure why it took them 3 pairs...Maybe they were just clearing out the old stock to make way for the non botched rubber?

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Maybe the 'sale' page on Madrock site still has your size of old shoes in stock for 19.95. Found plenty of them over the last year with good rubber on them too. Just in way off small sizes that are left.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

I mean they're MAD ROCKS!! You get what you pay for. They are a nice, cheap, entry level shoe for people that don't have much money or are just getting into the sport.

That's why you see them on the feet of gym noobs and gumbies. Not that they don't have their place in the game, but they'd need to really step it up before I'd buy a pair. They are a company that makes ok gear and an affordable price...but I wouldn't expect much from them other than that.

That being said, other shoes are getting WAY to expensive! $120-150? Crikes!

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

GETTING too expensive? man, i can remember climbing shoes running in the 120 to 150 range back in the late 80's and early 90's. i'd say they have come down quite a bit for the most part, and if you consider inflation - definitely so. interestingly enough, camalots pricing history is fairly similar. now climbing pants on the other hand, those have gone up quite a bit. nowadays i am just buying $4 pairs of pants from goodwill/etc,

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
slim wrote:GETTING too expensive? man, i can remember climbing shoes running in the 120 to 150 range back in the late 80's and early 90's. i'd say they have come down quite a bit for the most part, and if you consider inflation - definitely so. interestingly enough, camalots pricing history is fairly similar. now climbing pants on the other hand, those have gone up quite a bit. nowadays i am just buying $4 pairs of pants from goodwill/etc,
I seem to remember paying about $80 for my Five Ten Spires a long time ago..I know you can get them for that much now, but list is $100. I used to think $110 was ALOT for shoes..but the TC pros for $170? I don't climb that hard.
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Boreal Aces, 1994, $150. And Scarpa had that shoe with the EVA heel wedge that was even more expensive. Made in Spain or Italy>> than Made in China.

On a related note, are ropes more expensive? I paid $90 for a 45m rope in 1977. Last year I paid $129 for a 60m dry rope.

JohnWesely Wesely · · Lander · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 585

I have had Mad Rocks last over a year. The last resole I got with Mad Rock rubber lasted me eight or nine months and the rubber was not even worn through to the rand at that point.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

I'm not sponsored by MadRock, but I'm pleased with the quality of my shoes and the prices in the past. Those $160 shoes are for the 5.14 elite I guess, and they get the job done for the money I hope. But not for me.

Gunkiemike: I think I bought the same rope(Edelweiss) for 90 bucks in '75. Same for my first Vasque Ascender shoes for almost 80 bucks back then.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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