Torn Webbing on a Tri-cam during a fall

I'm a big tricam fan, but this has rattled my faith in them. Has anyone else experienced anything like this?

My partner was leading the climb and took a 30' whipper. This red tricam was the last piece of pro placed before the fall, and my partner was about ten feet above it when he fell.

It didn't seem like all that unusual of a fall, but it clearly split the webbing in two.

Your thoughts?

torn webbing on a tricam

torn tricam #2

How old was the webbing/tricam?
Has it been out in the elements or look like has any corrosion on it?

Not good. How old was the tricam in question?

Edit to add: was it placed in camming mode or stopper mode?

I purchased the cam used, so I couldn't tell you the age. I've certainly changed my attitude about used gear now and will be much more selective when purchasing anything used.

I've asked my buddy about the cam placement. When I hear back, I'll let you know. I think it was placed as a stopper since I had cleaned a couple tricams that were placed like that on a previous route that day.

Darren B. wrote: I think it was placed as a stopper ....

Well, I do know that tricams fail at a reduced force in stopper mode when compared to camming mode, but I forget what the % difference is (again, we also don't know yet if your friend did have it in stopper mode). How much rope was out at the time of the fall? I'm sure some of the engineers here could calculate a range for the forces that could have hit the tricam.

Since you didn't mention your partner getting jacked up, I'm hoping they made it out of that fall ok. Scary stuff, man. I'm interested to read how this unfolds because I love my tricams.

My partner was fine. The next piece in line held him, creating a scary looking 30 foot fall but nothing more than a banged up ankle. I was able to lower him just fine, and we climbed another pitch on a different climb before calling it a day.

I'm estimating that there was about 8 feet of rope out above the red tricam.

Darren B. wrote: I'm estimating that there was about 8 feet of rope out above the red tricam.

Sorry, I wasn't very clear in my question, what I meant was how much rope was payed out total, from your belay device to the climber. Trying to get an idea as to fall factor on the piece.

Happy to hear they are ok.

Did you place it in cam mode in a horizontal? Is the point facing up or down?

Erik W wrote: how much rope was payed out total, from your belay device to the climber. Trying to get an idea as to fall factor on the piece.

I'd say about 60 feet total.

Definitely. I'd become quite complacent in examining my gear. Now, I plan on adding a close inspection the night before every climb.

i doubt the actual tricam is at fault ... the sling itself looks like the culprit ... you dont know how long its been exposed to the elements for

if the same sling was on a cam it might have easily have failed tooo

treat used gear like bootied gear ... ie replace the slings ... at worst just use webbing and tie a knot

bearbreeder wrote:... at worst just use webbing and tie a knot

Let me know how that works for you on a tri-cam.

Chris D wrote: Let me know how that works for you on a tri-cam.

it works fine ... 1" 22kn webbing with a knot ... any reason why it shouldnt?

Just an observation...

It looks like the webbing was cut by a sharp edge. Generally, webbing melts when it's pulled to it's breaking strength and breaks (I do alot of testing). The picture you posted isn't of the best quality (not dissing you in anyway), but it appears like the break is pretty clean with minimal melting. Was the roll pin still in place or was it broken? I imagine the cam is still on route? It also appears the webbing mill is loose. Just another sign of old age and abuse and most likely the cause.

On an inspection note...If you see abrasion/cutting of strands at the connection point, best to remove the piece from service. Check that role pin!!! I've seen them work loose enough to fall out!

bearbreeder wrote: it works fine ... 1" 22kn webbing with a knot ... any reason why it shouldnt?

Sorry. Wasn't thinking of the larger tri-cams that a 1" webbing would fit thru. The biggest tri-cam i have is the brown 1.5.

Still suspicious even in the larger sizes. Why do some shops that re-sling SLCDs not re-sling tri-cams?

Chris D wrote: Sorry. Wasn't thinking of the larger tri-cams that a 1" webbing would fit thru. The biggest tri-cam i have is the brown 1.5. Still suspicious even in the larger sizes. Why do some shops that re-sling SLCDs not re-sling tri-cams?

no idea ... but camp recommend replacing with webbing of the appropriate size and tying off with a double fish knot ... when the sling is worn/old

camp.it/fr/..%5Cimg%5C5D2FB…

Darren B. wrote: I think it was placed as a stopper since I had cleaned a couple tricams that were placed like that on a previous route that day.

Sometimes, a Tricam in "stopper mode" in a vertical crack is not truly aligned with the direction of the fall. If that's the case, then one edge of the webbing (where it passes over the steel pin) will get hit with the load. And presumably start to tear. Once this begins, I imagine complete tearing of the webbing at that point follows quite easily.

Just a thought.

Darren B. wrote:I purchased the cam used, so I couldn't tell you the age.

That pretty much sums it up, in my opinion. I maintain that trusting any piece of gear with an unknown history (particularly one containing webbing of any type) is an invitation for disaster.

Glad no one was seriously injured.

James DeRoussel wrote: That pretty much sums it up, in my opinion. I maintain that trusting any piece of gear with an unknown history (particularly one containing webbing of any type) is an invitation for disaster. Glad no one was seriously injured.

Watch its not a red tricam, its actually a sun-bleached purple one.

dev

I was thinking along those lines of material compromise and having the webbing sent in. It's a nylon red tri-cam and looks to be in good physical condition otherwise. I'm not happy about the discoloration toward the head.

If it would be possible, post a high resolution pic of the fail and the opposed end to compare if the discoloration is just wear and tear usage or a chemical degradation sign. Wear & tear to a failure point at the age/good condition this nylon appears should have been quite noticeable; as Richard pointed out also, having the age can help in dating the nylon. Though polymer compromise to sunlight exposure or ozone gas would be so noticeable it would jump out at us; it takes a long time to get this and the discoloration/physical condition would be more generalized.

Stopper mode or not, yes you lose a kN, but a 30' whipper on a dynamic with a single body weight shouldn't fail it.

A thought I've had about tricams for a while is that an inexperienced second will 90% of the time have to resort to a nut-tool to clean them. If said inexperienced second isn't careful, he could easily damage the webbing around the pin while stabbing at the tricam to get it out.

That combined with used gear theory + gunkiemike's thoughts on uneven loading could produce failure.