Cranial Prophylactic
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.2 from 225 votes
Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Miller and Smith '76 |
Page Views: | 7,409 total · 30/month |
Shared By: | Peter Gram on Apr 2, 2004 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Cranial Prophylactic is reached by following the approach to the Perhaps wall, and then following the wall downhill. Look for a finger crack with a bolt about 15' up.
Fire up the crack, with a crux at the bolt. After this, the climbing eases and follows a crack system up and slightly left to a 3-bolt anchor. Many people rap from here, one rope rap.
If continuing up (I didn't), the route goes into a right facing dihedral with a pin. It continues up and eventually works left to a topout. Two rope rap or a one rope rap with downclimbing if this second pitch is done.
Fire up the crack, with a crux at the bolt. After this, the climbing eases and follows a crack system up and slightly left to a 3-bolt anchor. Many people rap from here, one rope rap.
If continuing up (I didn't), the route goes into a right facing dihedral with a pin. It continues up and eventually works left to a topout. Two rope rap or a one rope rap with downclimbing if this second pitch is done.
16 Comments