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Need identifier tips for bad Aliens

Original Post
john pruett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 0

Hey guys,
I have an old 3/4 Alien,never used since I heard there were issues. How do you tell these apart?
John

lisa c · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0
Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
john pruett wrote:Hey guys, I have an old 3/4 Alien,never used since I heard there were issues. How do you tell these apart? John
Like was said, there is no way of knowing. There have been enough failures of aliens that were not part of any recall but have failed to discount anything that CCH says is fine.
Aric Datesman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145

Similar topic went through Gunks last week....

Long story short, there's what CCH says in their Recall, then there's what they say in their Extended Recall, and then there's the fact that defective ones have been found outside of either recall period, including ones that had the Tensile Tested mark and no Dimple of Death.

If you're in the mood for some reading: Link

Long story short, I pull tested several dozen new and used Aliens and then proceeded to cross section the heads to examine the braze and found no way to tell good from bad. Only way to know for sure is to have it proof tested to some load you're comfortable with, but at the moment I don't know anyone doing such a thing (I stopped after publishing the report). Bear in mind, given the softness of the lobes there's a good chance a proof test to any significant load will squash the lobes and render the piece unusable. I also had quite a few axles go U-shaped, but never got around to hardness testing them to see if there was a problem with the heat treatment (a smaller V-anvil for my hardness tester is ~$400, so not something I was/am inclined to pony up for personally). Pics of all of the test samples are in the PDF linked on the page linked above.

Of course, some think I have/had some sort of axe to grind WRT CCH, so feel free to ignore any and all of the above.

-a.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

If you find the markings that say Alien, it may fail for no good reason.

Dusty · · Fort Collins · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 210

If it blows up when you fall on it, it's probably one of the bad ones.

Bob Robinson · · Lone Tree, Colorado · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 245

Yeah, it's hard to tell. First they're all like "we come in peace", then they break out those probes and, oh... those aliens... nevermind.

kachoong · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 180

I am an alien from downunder... never take us on face value... dimple of death or not, we may eat your babies!

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
Aric Datesman wrote:Similar topic went through Gunks last week.... Long story short, there's what CCH says in their Recall, then there's what they say in their Extended Recall, and then there's the fact that defective ones have been found outside of either recall period, including ones that had the Tensile Tested mark and no Dimple of Death. If you're in the mood for some reading: Link Long story short, I pull tested several dozen new and used Aliens and then proceeded to cross section the heads to examine the braze and found no way to tell good from bad. Only way to know for sure is to have it proof tested to some load you're comfortable with, but at the moment I don't know anyone doing such a thing (I stopped after publishing the report). Bear in mind, given the softness of the lobes there's a good chance a proof test to any significant load will squash the lobes and render the piece unusable. I also had quite a few axles go U-shaped, but never got around to hardness testing them to see if there was a problem with the heat treatment (a smaller V-anvil for my hardness tester is ~$400, so not something I was/am inclined to pony up for personally). Pics of all of the test samples are in the PDF linked on the page linked above. Of course, some think I have/had some sort of axe to grind WRT CCH, so feel free to ignore any and all of the above. -a.
Aric, nice to see you around, I'm just curious as to when I can create an account on theclimbinglab.com. Keep up the good work and let me know when I can get an account.
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Hahaha...so we've come full cirlce huh???

  • First - Fear and loathing. Aliens fail, everyone cries out they are the worst thing ever....
  • Next - Everyone forgets quickly, Dave W. dies and the fear of not having the cams that everyone just hated skyrockets the prices of USED cams to $75-100.
  • Later - Cams are selling for a reasonalbe price within a month, but are still going for $50 used.
  • Now - The "aliens are bad, they fail" conversation comes up.

Am I the only one that thinks this is crazy? Are we climbers or is this US Weekly? Scuze me...I have to take a call from Lindsay Lohan...
Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

my hybrids haven't failed yet...

no1nprtclr · · Front range Colorado · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 55

just destroy it and buy Metolius!!!!

With all the problems this company has, I'm amazed that they are still in business.

Anyway, I'm in need of a new rope; so I'm heading to Ace Hardware to buy one of those ones off their shelf. You know, those 3/8" jobbies people use for yard work, etc....

Anyone up for some climbing this afternoon so we can "break" in my new rope?

It's about the same thing as using aliens..... Why would you want to take that risk?

my .02$

Juan

Aric Datesman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145
Scott McMahon wrote:Am I the only one that thinks this is crazy?
Nope.
Luke to Zuke · · Anchorage · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 220
Aric Datesman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145
kennoyce wrote: Aric, nice to see you around, I'm just curious as to when I can create an account on theclimbinglab.com. Keep up the good work and let me know when I can get an account.
Yup, I'm still around; just not on RC anymore. And given that I mainly lurk on all of the other sites it's not surprising you haven't seen me.

Anyway, no idea yet when we're going to open up TheClimbingLab as we're still working out some bugs in the software and putting the advisory committee together. So maybe sometime in November?

-a.
Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
Aric Datesman wrote: Yup, I'm still around; just not on RC anymore. And given that I mainly lurk on all of the other sites it's not surprising you haven't seen me. Anyway, no idea yet when we're going to open up TheClimbingLab as we're still working out some bugs in the software and putting the advisory committee together. So maybe sometime in November? -a.
cool, I can't wait.
mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,885

Not to stir the pot....

Reading the Alien report by Aric, it's worth nothing the kN at failure. Yeah, most of them failed below their rating but MANY of them still got to a respectable #. Not that I'm saying it's a good thing or bad thing BUT failing at 9kN isn't the same as 3kN.

Just food for thought.

I've moved on (for the most part) to master cams...

Aric Datesman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145

Very true, Matt, and I think I recall there being a section in the document that discusses the possibility of CCH simply being overly optimistic with their ratings. Failing where they did wouldn't bother me one bit if they were rated below that point. Of course this is ignoring the whole brazing issue and the fact that you can't tell a good one from a bad one by simple external examination...

Anyway, it amazes me that the CCH thing keeps coming up... Either word didn't get out as well as I thought it had or people have short memories.

Aric Datesman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145
JSH wrote:Anyway, it may be worth your while to make an FAQ page that people can just link to, so you don't have to be the singular response every time.
Already in process... Gear Issues and Recalls @ TheClimbingLab

:-)
Aric Datesman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145

Good idea, and now added.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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