The Mutant
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British V4 YDS 6B Font
Avg: 3 from 25 votes
Type: | Sport, Boulder, 30 ft (9 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 3,200 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Jesse Ryan on May 29, 2004 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a combination of two submissions. To avoid a duplicate post, the second post is added on here.
This short, steep, pocket-pulling, boulder problem on a rope - not your usual Shelf affair - is on the Incredible Hulk Boulder. To get there, either hike to the far side and aim down or follow the approach path from the right side of Bulge wall at the Gallery, look for a faint path to the right (the main trail heads up to the far side and you will have to scramble down again). This is the right line of three on the SE side of the boulder, just right of the 13. Sweet long pulls and quick problem solving end just as quickly. You may give this three stars if you like this style - I prefer it to last longer. Given 11d by Van Horn's guide and 12a/b in Knapp's -fun line no matter the grade.
Per LeeAB Brinckerhoff: this is really fun pocket climbing on the steep face. All the holds are good by Shelf standards, but the wall is way steeper. I lead this route several times and bouldered it a couple. I have a friend who at the time had not climbed 5.12- but could boulder up to V6 who was working it as a boulder problem, so while the fall is big from the top, it is not terrible.
This short, steep, pocket-pulling, boulder problem on a rope - not your usual Shelf affair - is on the Incredible Hulk Boulder. To get there, either hike to the far side and aim down or follow the approach path from the right side of Bulge wall at the Gallery, look for a faint path to the right (the main trail heads up to the far side and you will have to scramble down again). This is the right line of three on the SE side of the boulder, just right of the 13. Sweet long pulls and quick problem solving end just as quickly. You may give this three stars if you like this style - I prefer it to last longer. Given 11d by Van Horn's guide and 12a/b in Knapp's -fun line no matter the grade.
Per LeeAB Brinckerhoff: this is really fun pocket climbing on the steep face. All the holds are good by Shelf standards, but the wall is way steeper. I lead this route several times and bouldered it a couple. I have a friend who at the time had not climbed 5.12- but could boulder up to V6 who was working it as a boulder problem, so while the fall is big from the top, it is not terrible.
- 4 Stars is for bouldering it, 3 stars for leading. As a boulder problem, it is tall and proud, even if you do it on a rope first (obviously even prouder if not checked out on a rope), but as a lead it's just too short for 4 stars.
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