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The Bucket List
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.4 from 14
votes
Routes in Trojan Bunny Buttress
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Botany of Desire S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bruise Collector, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bucket List, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bun in the Oven S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Crawfish S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cuervo Gold S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Delivering Dynos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dog Will Hunt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Europithacus S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Evolution T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Fire On The Mountain T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Goldshut Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Granite Oak S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Half Cracked T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Lick My Plate T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Only A Flesh Wound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pondemonium T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sloping Surprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sonata T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Streatch T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Temptation Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Thy Holy Hand Grenade S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unicorn Tower S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 40.17756, -105.35586 |
| FA: | Bernard Gillett and Fred Knapp, 2008 |
| Page Views: | 3,434 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Dougald MacDonald on Sep 7, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
This route starts 80 feet off the ground. Climb the right-hand (easier) version of Bruise Collector (step right six feet to another anchor) or climb Europithacus. Start with three bolts of desperate crimping on a high-angle slab-prow. Continue more easily up the shallow prow, placing small to medium cams in the dihedral to the right. Step right and climb a left-slanting intermittent crack (harder than it looks, so don't skip any pro) to reach the next bolt. Hard moves past this bolt gain a wild zigzagging line through roofs, passing three more bolts. This entire second crux is tricky, pumpy, and wild. Two raps to the ground.
I'll go with Bernard's 5.11a rating, but consider this an Eldo grade because this climb feels like a trad route despite seven bolts. If it were in Boulder Canyon, the grade might be considerably higher.
This is the best new pitch I've done on the Front Range in a year or two. A real testament to Mr. Gillett's vision and hard work.
6 Comments