Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 10,718 total · 62/month |
Shared By: | Jonathan S on Feb 22, 2010 · Updates |
Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…
Description
Gunklandia is a local classic, with 3 fun pitches and a little bit of spice at the end. It starts a little down hill from old town.
The first two pitches are commonly combined into one and follow an easy corner system and crack to a spacious belay ledge with rap anchors. From here up and to the right takes you to a bomb bay chimney which puts the sting in the tail of this scorpion.
Have fun.
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[Maine Admin. note: The "Direct" variation ( 15 ft of unprotected 5.9 on P1) starts on cracks about 10 ft to the right of the regular route (photo). R Hall. If anyone has a photo of someone climbing it it would be greatly appreciated if you posted it. ]
Start of Gunklandia -- discontinuous orange cracks in a gray face. The Direct start is also visible on the right side of the photo.
Location
Follow the finger cracks up to get to a little ledge, then a larger crack leads you up to the belay ledge and the end of the second pitch.
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