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Routes in North Side
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Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+ |
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Blue Steel Throbber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 R |
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Bombelay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Brain Dead T A4 |
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Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Carolina Hog Farm T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 PG13 |
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Cornflake Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3 |
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Deep Cycle T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Delapidated T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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House of Cards Var. A3- |
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Invisible Airwaves Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Invisible Airways T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2 |
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Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Menagerie Direct T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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Not Waste Away T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Practice Aid Route T,TR A2 |
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Reign of Fire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13 |
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Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Saint of Circumstance T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Seal, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Shrimp Cocktail T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R |
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Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Toxic Masculinity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ PG13 |
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Unknown (just left of Safari Jive) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Waste not want not direct T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Waste Not, Want Not T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Womb, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Zombie Zoo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3+ R |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Tony Pidgeon, Steve Longenecker, Bob Gillespie - 1970 FFA: see below. |
| Page Views: | 17,738 total · 83/month |
| Shared By: | Rob Dillon on Oct 16, 2006 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
The best things in life require a little work, like getting born. If you've found yourself drooling over the flawless 5.10 dihedral pictured on the cover of Shull's Southeastern Rock, it's time to put in a little grunt work and escape the Womb. A mandatory stop on the southeastern climber's granite training circuit.
P1: A 5.9 hand crack angles up and right to the route's namesake pod in a left-facing corner after 165'. Belay from bolts. Or break it up and belay from a ledge after 65 feet.
P2: Crux. To gain the corner, you must squirm to the top of the pod and convert from squeeze-chimney technique to laybacking the left-facing corner above. Fortunately, most of the conversion takes place while toproping from excellent gear. Kicking your belayer in the head at least once is de rigeur; twice, and you're buying the beer. Once established in the corner, stem and layback your way to glory for 50 feet or so and belay on a ledge from gear.
P3: Brows to the trees, 5.7.
P1: A 5.9 hand crack angles up and right to the route's namesake pod in a left-facing corner after 165'. Belay from bolts. Or break it up and belay from a ledge after 65 feet.
P2: Crux. To gain the corner, you must squirm to the top of the pod and convert from squeeze-chimney technique to laybacking the left-facing corner above. Fortunately, most of the conversion takes place while toproping from excellent gear. Kicking your belayer in the head at least once is de rigeur; twice, and you're buying the beer. Once established in the corner, stem and layback your way to glory for 50 feet or so and belay on a ledge from gear.
P3: Brows to the trees, 5.7.
Location
The Womb dihedral is distinct as the right margin of the slabby left end of the North Face. Look for a right-facing, vegetated flake about 40 feet up, which in turn will take you to the right-angling hand crack that ends at the Womb.
DESCENT: Walk off to climber's left, or shwack over to the R and use the Safari Jive raps.
DESCENT: Walk off to climber's left, or shwack over to the R and use the Safari Jive raps.
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