For future reference, those chickenheads are not big enough to be considered bomber in Red Rock sandstone. Especially the smaller one. And especially in white rock.
Sorry Kurt I have to disagree with you and say that was not a "bomber" anchor. It looks good and surely felt solid but the rock, particularly the white rock, is suspect at the best of times. Fortunately it looks like a fair crack to the side of the smaller head for an easy back-up. I don't know how much experience you have at RR or on 'Soft Stone" but the weather will also play in considerably. Those heads will be extra suspect for days after a good rain.
what was the belayer tied into....maybe i just dont see it; or maybe this was a directional to run the ATC-guide through? I wouldnt have used these knobs, personally, and would have stuffed a number 2 cam into that crack that was already pointed out.
Ladies and gentlemen, he's back, with more helpful comments. If I do the route again anytime soon, Kurt, I'll get video taken of me breaking those holds off with my bare hands or a swift kick. 20 bucks says wet or dry they're gone in ten seconds. Really.
My 2 CENT'S, sandstone chicken heads, Bomber NOT!! what were you thinking, you where not thinking, OMG, plus 100% belay anchor, need to learn more, a lot more,
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Jan 23, 2013
Scathing self-aggrandizing critiques are not very useful.
If that was the only anchoring option, a MUCH better choice would have been to belay directly off of your harness in a good, well braced position. In that case your "anchor" would have served only as a modestly tensioned back-up against the possibilty of you being pulled out of position. When working with questionable anchors, that's a much better way to go then belaying directly off the anchor. And for what it's worth, I have many days climbing on soft sandstone both in Red Rock and elsewhere, and would have felt very, very uncomfortable with that anchor. Oh yeah, tie limiting knots in your sliding x's as well. No sense making a sketchy situation worse.