North Face Route
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.4 from 25 votes
Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 9,310 total · 44/month |
Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Oct 11, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
P1: Start up a 5.7 flake that is laden with large dikes. Climb up to the white bowl and belay here on two solid bolt anchors.
P2: Continue up the prominent right-leaning crack that is a lot harder than it looks. The pro is good and abundant. Tight finger locks on a steep wall with no feet bring you through the crux. Belay at the small ledge just under the roof on two good bolt anchors.
P3: Continue straight up over a horrible-looking roof which is not as bad as it looks or go out right for a slightly harder variation with two closely spaced bolts for pro. Once over the roof, move out left up a series of cracks littered with fixed pins. Follow these cracks up the wildly exposed 5.9 face on large dikes and hand jams up to a large grass-filled ledge and belay there.
P4: Now continue up and left over some less-than-traveled rock; any number of ways (all about 5.6) to the top. Good stuff.
LOCATION: Starts just left of Stem Mister and Right of Power Lust. For add'l information see the Beta Picture herein
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