Topo with some retreat options marked.

All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > Kyhv Peak > [Redacted] (5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c)

Topo with some retreat options marked.

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Me on pitch 1. Dec 2008.

Totally bomber pro from one of my early forays onto Squaw Peak.

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4.8 from 22 votes

Tristan Higbee

Sep 21, 2010

“Topo with some retreat options marked.”

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Nearby Photos

Topo with some retreat options marked.

Totally bomber pro from one of my early forays onto Squaw Peak.

Squaw Peak from Y Mountain

Nice shade right before the 12th pitch

Me topping out at the summit. Too stoked to get my shoes off.

Summit photo with Rollin

Modified topo. My opinions from 3 ascents, adjusted ratings, clarified descriptions & directions. Print & climb with it in your pocket.

Cool view of pitches 3-8

Jack Powers Mid route checking out the bivy cave at about 2AM!

Thomas Gappmayer enjoying the belay before pitch 16.

Near the top - Pitch 22 of Squawstruck

A view of Guy at the cave with another group headed up pitch 12.

Approach beta: wait till after Pa's Mother to turn left at the Boulder in red, then [roughly] follow the pink line up to P1 (blue line)

Diving Board, a short walk west from top of Pitch 8

Pitches 3-8. Couple of parties are visible at the top of pitch 6.

The "crux" pitch 14 linked into 15 (although I felt a couple other pitches were perhaps more technical than pitch 14).

Flapper 1 of 5 on this climb. Bring your A-game, bring motivation, bring ibuprofen, and BRING TAPE!
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*Note that it can also come in handy if your old shoes randomly decide to rip in half with 12 pitches to go...

The view from the top of pitch 1 to the top of pitch 2.

The cave/mine at the base of pitch 12 is a great place to have lunch in the shade.

Bolt missing hanger on pitch 22.

Eric E. on the 14th corner pitch- Sept 2015

Tristan and Thomas on pitch 16, taken from the trail.

My favorite pitch in the first 8: Frosted Flakes. Just look at how white the limestone is! And it is very solid with great holds and a fantastic roof with a perfect jug for pulling.

Map of the descent trail.

Tristan after the leap of faith headed up pitch 2.

Tristan moving up to the rest before the hard crux of pitch 14. This was the high point on our FA attempt.

Pitch two. Fun blocky climbing to a corner which demands good footwork.

Thomas Gappmayer at the belay on top of pitch 22. Success!

Jack getting airy on Pitch 20(?)

Alexis Crellin after Pitch 14 roof.

Brennan sending the thin Pitch 19

View from the top

3AM top-out!
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There are several different walls on this route. Even though we studied the topo beforehand, we got lost looking for the summit wall at night (it's much further to the right than I thought). Bring headlamps and be ready to climb at night!

Best thing I've done in the 4 times I've done this route: write down the links with their bolt counts and lengths on my phone so I didn't have to constantly open my phone or unfold my topo.

Can't miss the diving board atop pitch 8, make sure to wave to the hikers

Starting up pitch one.

squawstruck poster born from quarentine boredom

Beginning the last few pitches on the uppermost headwall.

Leading the 8th pitch of squawstruck

Rachel linking pitch 14 (5.11-) and pitch 15 (5.10b) into a 110ft pitch. Sept 20, 2013

Kip working towards the cruxy section

near pitch 17

Jack onsights Pitch 19

Looking down at the top of the Pitch 1 buttress from a little ways up Pitch 2.

Eric leading out of the cave pitch

Pitch 12 with cave at base

Looking back across the leap of faith to Christian belaying from the pitch 1 tower.

Starting up the crux pitch

Enjoying a fine fall day high on the route

Me on pitch 6. Dec 2008.

Late night Summit 9/2015

Shot from top of Squaw Peak just after sunset

On the diving board 100' west of top of pitch 8

The very sustained 5.10 pitch 12.

Pitch 22- the final pitch

Approach beta pic.

The exposure is great throughout the whole route.

Start of pitch 3. This shows the walk between the top of two and the start of 3.

Bryce having fun on Squawstruck

Me on pitch 1. Dec 2008.

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