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Routes in The Watchtower - Lower
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Canary, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Don't Look Down T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Joker, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Mothers Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shelob's Lair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Thief, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X |
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Watchtower Standard Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Pat Callis, Jerry Kanzler Mothers Day 1969 |
| Page Views: | 2,801 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | GRK on Aug 25, 2010 |
| Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
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Description
A fully traditional work out, Mothers Day is an adventure of yesteryear. . . today! True value, this route comes full circle with a variety of climbing styles and techniques. With three wandering pitches, good route finding skills are a must as well as a balanced knowledge of building anchors.
P1: Begin on the north, front face with a hand sized crack that climbs about 15 feet before it turns into a bushy, tree filled section, climb past this to a large, clean belay ledge. Build an anchor. Dirty, vegetated, and barely worth it, protection here is decent and the climbing is mellow. 50' (5.6)
P1-a: Alternatively, a better way to begin is up and around the north side corner on a clean face where three more obvious variations exist.
P2: Move up and right to a small stance and continue straight up to a broken left-facing corner. Climb this until it "empties out" and cross right, back onto the face to a hand sized crack that ends at another obvious and clean ledge. Exciting climbing up a clean line with good and spacious gear. Build an anchor. 55' (5.7)
P3: Continue up and right through a short corner (more direct) or traverse immediately right off the belay onto the face and gain a large groove or "birth canal", being it Mothers Day and all? Make a straight shot following the crack towards a flake on a small bulge (crux). Fire the roof, top out, and fashion a belay. Grunting and groveling on this pitch are not uncommon. Good rock, good line, good fun. 65' (5.9)
Descent: Descend via a long walk-off to the left or right of the buttress or just walk 15' to the south and rappel using The Watchtower's Standard Route anchors if they aren't occupied.
P1: Begin on the north, front face with a hand sized crack that climbs about 15 feet before it turns into a bushy, tree filled section, climb past this to a large, clean belay ledge. Build an anchor. Dirty, vegetated, and barely worth it, protection here is decent and the climbing is mellow. 50' (5.6)
P1-a: Alternatively, a better way to begin is up and around the north side corner on a clean face where three more obvious variations exist.
P2: Move up and right to a small stance and continue straight up to a broken left-facing corner. Climb this until it "empties out" and cross right, back onto the face to a hand sized crack that ends at another obvious and clean ledge. Exciting climbing up a clean line with good and spacious gear. Build an anchor. 55' (5.7)
P3: Continue up and right through a short corner (more direct) or traverse immediately right off the belay onto the face and gain a large groove or "birth canal", being it Mothers Day and all? Make a straight shot following the crack towards a flake on a small bulge (crux). Fire the roof, top out, and fashion a belay. Grunting and groveling on this pitch are not uncommon. Good rock, good line, good fun. 65' (5.9)
Descent: Descend via a long walk-off to the left or right of the buttress or just walk 15' to the south and rappel using The Watchtower's Standard Route anchors if they aren't occupied.
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