Super Pooper
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 33.76015, -116.6846 |
| FA: | FA - Chuck Wilts, Don Wilson, John and Ruth Mendenhall 1952. FFA Bob Kamps and Mark Powell 1967 |
| Page Views: | 25,394 total · 102/month |
| Shared By: | Dpurf on Feb 21, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Description
A distinct line that forms the left margin of the West face Bulge.
From the From Bad Traverse (FBT) ledge, climb up and to the right on easy ledges to establish a belay (4th class). Alternatively, take the Vampire and move up and left to establish a belay (5.7).
P1) Several different crack systems (none harder than 5.9) lead to a belay at a good ledge at the base of a left-facing corner.
P2) Climb the crack, past a wedged chockstone and a fixed pin,up to a small roof. Turn the roof on the left, then make delicate moves up to a tiny ledge (5.10-). A difficult fist jam leads up to another chockstone, followed by strenuous hand jamming in the back of a flare (5.10-). Traverse left, when possible, to another crack and follow it a short distance to a belay stance at the base of a thin crack on the left wall of the dihedral.
P3) Jam thin finger cracks on the left wall (5.8) onto an arête, then belay at a small stance at the base of a dihedral/ramp capped with a small roof. At this point you can traverse right (5.8) across the face for the Price of Fear (5.10c) finish.
P4) Watch out for rope drag on this long pitch. Lieback the corner (5.7), turn the roof on the left (5.8-), then stay left as you approach a bulge. Work back right, then climb up and left through the bulge at a weakness onto unprotected (5.6) slab climbing to the top.
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