expedition tent

Looking for suggestions for a bombproof relatively lightweight 2person tent. Needs to be bomber enough for 14k' camp on Denali. A built-in vestuble would be preferred, as I'll probably be passing some time living in this thing at some point.

The MHW Trango 2 seems kinda heavy for a 2p shelter. A Denali guide suggested I check out the Marmot Alpinist, but it appears to be a significant step down in durability during a storm.

Any thoughts, experiences? need any more specifics for application?

MSR Fury. Wind tunnel tested to 100 mph. Vestibule is great for cooking. I like mine a lot but like most MSR tents is is a little harder to put up. Once up it is bomber.

Any tent worthy of Denali weather is going to be a little heavier, but it could save your life.

Were you thinking of single- or double-wall? There's a lot to be said for single-wall tents in that environment. With double-wall tents it's almost impossible to prevent spindrift working its way up into the gap between the inner and the flysheet. That can be a real problem in a multi-day blizzard. Also single-walls are quieter in the wind -- there's no flysheet to bang against the inner -- and you stand a better chance of keeping the insides dry if you're pitching the tent in bad weather. Have a look at the Black Diamond/Bibler tents, although one downside is that you'll have to pay extra to get a detachable vestibule (which you'll want to have).

theres always the tried and true hillberg tents

hilleberg.com/

never played with them but they are light, roomy and bombproof i hear.

I love my Mountain Hardwear EV 2. It might be too small for what you're looking for. It also has an "integrated vestibule," which means that it is a little longer than normal and has zipper in the floor for grabbing snow, sweeping out frost, etc, but it is not super livable. So far for me, it has been bombproof. It is single wall, but very well vented, so it moves moisture really well. I hope this is helpful. Good luck!

rei.com/product/779444

-Andrew

I used Alpinist on Aconcagua high camp and MH Trango 2 on denali. Unless you are targeting alpine routes like Cassin/West Ribs. I don't think you would want to live in Alpinist for longer than a few days. Integrated vestibule is a pain in a snow storm. Just about any four season tent will do the job as long as you are willing to build a strong snow wall, reinforce it from when you have down time.

I've got the MH EV2 as well, and while it's a phenomenal assault tent, it's not the most fun for hanging out in for prolonged periods of time. Trango 2 is a rockin' tent, but I have to say I've heard some really good things about the REI Mountain 2. It's beefy, a LOT cheaper than the big brands, and it has integrated snow flaps for the vestibule.

Actually the REI Mountain 3 isn't much heavier but has a lot more room... great for low camps....

rei.com/product/739349

My party used the MH Trango on the West Rib in 2003.
We didn't have any hurricane winds, but the tent was great,
if a bit heavy.
If you want to pay big bucks, go Bibler. . .

The Marmot Alpinist is a POS - I hated mine so much I returned it, and special ordered a SD Convert 2 which I quite like. Bibler/Integral Designs are nice too. What about something like the Bibler Fitzroy? Single wall and livable.

Dirtbag: I spent close to 3 weeks on Denali back in the 90's and my advice is to opt for comfort/durability vs. the lightweight alpine assault tents. First, the 14K camp is really pretty sheltered so horrific winds are possible but IMO very unlikely. Also very easy there to fortify a camp,e.g. lots of compacted snow to build snow walls. Second, IMO there's no single wall tent made that is as comfortable for an extended stretch as a 2 wall tent (and yes, I have a Bibler...). There's just too much condensation/frost in the morning with a single wall. While a 2 wall will usually weigh more, unless you're doing a harder core route you'll be hauling a sled anyway; saving a pound or so isn't the top priority (e.g. I spent almost 5 days weathering a storm at 14K and LOVED having a vestibule to cook in during that storm...I prefer eating to adhering to alpinist ethics of uber light but impractical gear. Just me...). Also IMO a lot of the expedition-worthiness of a camp has to do with the climber, ie: Do you know how to anchor a tent well in the snow, are your guy lines equalized, are your snow walls well though out, etc., etc?

As far as recommendations there's a lot of good new stuff out there. Hillebergs get kudos but I have no experience with them. I've been shopping for an exped tent lately and have drifted to the MSR tents (e.g. Asgard, Fury, etc.) Seem well designed, etc. Anyway, good Luck!
-Tom

I just deleted a couple posts as I rapidly changed my mind, trying to figure out how to avoid buying an arsenal of tents for a variety of applications.

I think I could get by living in the MSR Fury for a few weeks while acclimating. Then, my BD LIghthouse would be used for fast and light ascent in dry conditions.

That sounds good for now... any thoughts?

you don't need a tent that's a million dollars for it to be bommer i just moved for ak and live everywhere from the bering straight to the yukon and my fav is the kelty gunnison 2 or 4. it has tons of room great ventilation and can take a freaking hurricane. don't let the price fool you it's great. pile snow on the windward sides to keep the vestibule down but you do want ventilation to keep the water vapor from frosting the inside of your tent. often time you wake up in some tents soaked and it wasn't a leak it was your breath condensing inside.
hope this helps Andrew

climbersconnect.com

Here's my Denali trip in a nutshell...

6 people, 7 tents, 200#s/person

For the "approach" and to leave at 17K:
3x - estore.websitepros.com/1764…

For the "Hilton" camp @ 14K: 1 floorless Atlas + 1 w/floor...
estore.websitepros.com/1764…

For the route: 2 x BD FirstLight

North Face Mountain 25

MtnManMatt wrote:Here's my Denali trip in a nutshell... 6 people, 7 tents, 200#s/person