Accident & left gear on Break On Through, Eldo on 9/4

So far I haven't seen any posts about anyone fetching your gear?

Give me a shout, I may be able to get up there this weekend to fetch.

Be sure to submit this to Climbing for their mini-epics issue! Of course over the years you could write your own book!

Mike Crandall wrote:So far I haven't seen any posts about anyone fetching your gear? Give me a shout, I may be able to get up there this weekend to fetch. Be sure to submit this to Climbing for their mini-epics issue! Of course over the years you could write your own book!

Thanks Mike. Yeah, I think people just come to look at the picture and never read about the booty hanging on the wall. Someone has had to climb it since then, if not someone has climbed Chianti and taken most of the gear.

Or, maybe people are leaving it there so I can go back and send it? I am out of climbing for at least another week...

Damn! Hate when that happens!!

I'll keep you posted. At the very least I'll cruise up there this evening with binoculars to see if it's up there still.

Could be worse... Right?

patrick kadel wrote: Doesn't everyone?

I will now so it will keep on slicing its way out!
At least you have a sense of humor.

I have seen some odd stuff in climbing over the 30+ years but this has got to be about the strangest result ever. Another reason not to fall, regardless of what Ilgner says.

Did the crab absorb the full fall impact and then hang full body weight from that one point ? Without damaging muscle, etc...? Wow... Heal fast and send faster.

BTW you guys need to rename that climb to something like:
It won't Break on Through

Have word the gear has been retrieved. The exchange is being negotiated.

Mike, you are welcome to take that after work hike but it should no longer be for booty spotting.

Paul, the fall was at the gear. Left hand reaching for finger jug above the gear, right hand being stoopid looking for something below the gear in the nothing crack. Both feet to the left, back/shoulder against the right. Feet failed, body went into the corner, draw pressed against a massive bicep, and then...meathook! Yes, at the end of the fall there was slack in the rope and both feet were in the air. All the weight was suspended on the fucker that broke on through the arm. I suck at climbing.

Once i realized my problem i shouted a few choice expletives and realized i had few options. Fortunate to have both arms still working I pulled up on the gear (bomber nut at the finger jug) and tried to pull the fucker out of the arm. I got it to move out about an inch to how it looks in the picture. Despite pulling, pushing, turning and wiggling the fucker it would not come out, it was hooked on something quite painful.

I thought about manning up and pulling it out, tearing through whatever was in the way. I am not tough like that. So I am still holding myself up on the gear and still have the rope through the fucker, the fucker still in my arm, no feet, full on panic mode, and the thought of falling or lowering back onto the fucker.

After some struggle I clipped into the nut with a short draw and clipped it to the harness. I thought from this restful position I could try again to get the fucker out of my arm. Such a poor choice. Pain is now intense, more intense, fucker still in and fucking with me. I begin to laugh at the absurdity of the situation but come to terms with my desire to get down from there and seek professional fucker removal. I got the rope unclipped from the fucker, put it through another draw, unclipped and lowered.

During lowering Mike was wondering up the trail and offered to get help. I was pretty sure I didn't need rangers or rescue people laughing and the blood loss was somehow minimal. But the sensible side came through and thought it wouldn't be a bad idea in case i passed out on the way down.

I got off the rock with Jen's help, climbed down to the trail (minor downclimb from the start ledge), took off the climbing shoes and started hiking down. I asked Jen to pick up my shoes once she collects all the crap at the base. Jen, sorry for making you carry everything.

I make it down to the creek and meet the rangers near the Milton Boulder. They offered to help but there is not much that can be done at this point. Nobody was going to touch the fucker without some sweet tools and drugs. The rangers offered neither. They did tape the gate open for me as the pinching of a flap of skin hurt a bit. That helped somewhat.

So now Jen, my friend that gives a good belay, comes down the trail to the car and informs me she cannot drive stick. At the time it seemed more absurd than the fucker in the arm. I asked the rangers for a ride...no can do. I am in panic mode again. Then Mr. Mtn Proj himself came into my life. He was more than happy (once i proved i wasn't bleeding too much) to drive me to the hospital, and his friend drove my car with Jen. Finally, things are looking up.

I went to Avista in Louisville per the rangers suggestion, not sure why there but the Doc was nice and the ER was empty. I got quick service, Nick got a good picture, the drugs and tools were effective. The fucker was removed.

I think six or seven people got pictures. All were amazed at the freakish horror.

I have since seen an Orthopedic and was told something like 'The shit we can fix you didn't break and the shit you broke we cannot fix.' I think that was pretty good news. The doc asked when I wanted to climb again and I told him how my gear was still up there and that today (last Tuesday) would be perfect. He said let's talk next Monday when we remove the stitches.

So you ask if anything was damaged...umm, did you see that picture? I don't have a list, but muscles heal, skin heals, not sure about my pride. I may have severed a small nerve as I still have a numb patch on my forearm. But a full recovery is expected of range of motion and strength.

And now with word of the gear being retrieved I should be able to rest up for as long as it takes. Thanks all.

Well played. Nice touch making people belly laugh at the rending of your flesh. Climb safe and soon.

I'll be honest- I would have passed out. Yuck.

pk, you are my new hero. Your honest and self-deprecating trip report coupled with your MFBA caribiner-through-the-arm experience is truly, to use an overused word, epic!

Man, thats a sweet story. Way to be a bad ass.
Best of luck healing up quickly.
-Jon

BirdDog wrote:Yuk! Check out the rope groove on that 'biner. Heal fast.

check out the 'biner groove on that arm!

Get well soon and teach Jen how to drive--could save your life some day!!

Patrick,

Great story, you are a friggin stud. So when the Dr. removed the carabiner from your arm, did he claim it as booty and keep it?

Wow! I never even considered that possible. I think I'm going to have nightmares about hotwires tonight. Get well soon.

Tony B wrote: I'll be honest- I would have passed out. Yuck.

I about pass out everytime I see that picture. 

Bump

This thread was from 2010.  Wonder how the OP is doing?