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Bugaboo beta

Original Post
d powledge · · Montana · Joined May 2009 · Points: 21

I've seen some info posted previously, so sorry if this is a repeat. Any info would be greatly appreciated from those who've been up there - especially this season. Headed up next week and wondering about the activity of the glaciers. Is this a very active area where most rope up with axes or are most pathways well worn by this time in the season? Trying to decide between taking the full crampons or just a simple instep-type crampon. thanks! also, any good brewery/pub suggestions for the way home?

Patrick Maloney · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 10

Damien,
I haven't been to the Bug's for many years, but i never had to use crampons when i was.
Instep is all you will need.
James Garrett and I did a couple of routes on Bugaboo spire and the Becky Chouinard on the Houser Tower, and as i said no crampons just old Nike Lava Domes on the feet.
Hiking boots should do it.
Have a great trip!

mcarizona · · Flag · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 180

Damien,

I went with my brother in early August: spectacular place!!

OK the chicken wire is provided by the park in the carpark area. You have to walk up a huge mountain on day one!! Pay for camping in an envelope 10 bucks each at the kwanza hut. We stayed at boulder camp and were irritated with the loss of elevation but very happy with the serenity. We used crampons and an alpine start with the rope tied in half and simul-ed the 'COL' (that pass is cool!) there were two open blue cracks at that time but it was easy to negotiate due to a very well worn trail. There were some hotshots with mountain boots and no crampons that were doing fine. Try to stay a couple days as the weather is very changeable and you can get the summits you are after.

GO FOR IT!!

Steve

Martin le Roux · · Superior, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 401

The glaciated slope below the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col often loses some its snow cover in late season, in which case you might be faced with 45 degree ice. Could be tricky without front-points.

However, that probably won't be a concern right now. Here's the Canadian Mountain Guides' mountain conditions report:

acmg.ca/mcr/archives.asp

As of Sept 2: "The cold, rainy, and snowy weather that blessed us late last week persisted until Tuesday this week. The Rocky and Columbia Mountains received 15-30 cm of snow above 2800 m with the snowline getting as low as 2300 m." That's the altitude of the Kain cabin.

Cota · · Bend OR · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 0

I just got back this week from a trip up there. At this time of the season I think it would be VERY limiting to go up there without full crampons and mountain boots. We endured several days of snow and cold temps, which hardens up the Cols and you do need front points at the top. The glaciers were getting covered with snow and some of the crevasses are hard to see. I didn't rope up, but there were some very competent alpine climbers up there who were. Every one that was at the hut had full boots and 'pons, and no one was complaining about it. I, for one, can move faster when I feel safer, the weight of them does not slow me down nearly as much as being tentative with each step.

If you do hit warm weather be very carefull coming down the Bug-Snowpatch col in the afternoon. We saw several refrigerator size blocks coming down it, as in 2 a day.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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