Mountain Project Logo

Boulder aid, 3-day trip.

Original Post
MarcRobinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 10

I'm headed to Boulder for a few days around September 24 and want to get in as much moderate solo aid (up to the occasional move of A3/C3) as possible, so I'm looking for recommendations. I'm most interested in finding a cluster of routes close to each other, for efficiency's sake -- i.e., eliminate time spent driving and shlepping gear and maximize time on the rock. The reason for this trip is that I was too slow in the Valley this spring and need to speed up. I don't live in a climbing area and need to get more efficient. Sure, 3 or 4 days won't be enough, but at least it couldn't hoit. Oh, in case you're wondering -- I'll be soloing because everyone around here seems to be dedicated to gyms and sport climbing. I'm trad, hate climbing gyms, and am training for a Valley wall next spring.
Advice? Thanks in advance.

jack roberts · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 0

Marc,

Drive up Boulder Canyon and climb on Castle Rock. The rock is very similar to Yosemite and you won't get a shorter approach with a high concentration of aid routes. Bob D'antono's is the guide to get.

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,197

Once you have warmed up on Castlerock head up to Lumpy Ridge and try your hand at some real aid routes on the Twin Owls. Just make sure in both instances you are going clean as most everything on both formations has been freed.

Have Fun.

Tombo · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 410

Marc,

I'd agree on Castle Rock especially for soloing, the roof area alone has two C1's I've done and another which I believe is C3. I may be able to get out that weekend, drop me a line if interested in a partner. Above Boulder Falls is China Doll a C3 multi pitch and the Twin Owls has a bunch of C2-C3's.

Tom

MarcRobinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 10

Thanks, Jack, Kevin, and Tombo. Curiously enough, Catle Rock was at the top of my list. I'm glad to see it confirmed by more knowledgeable people than me. I'll try to get a copy of that guidebook before I go, and if not, I'll make do with the one I already have. Tombo, I'll e-mail you; climbing with a partner is usually better than soloing.

Adrian Hill · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2002 · Points: 15

Agreed on the Castle Rock options. Another short route, with a 5 min.
approach in Boulder Canyon is an obvious diagonal crack on Practice
Rock. Requires only wires and a couple of cams. Gets plenty of sun too.
There's probably enough information on this site to get to all the
routes without buying a guidebook - if you need more info., send me a
personal e-mail.

Good luck, and be persistent - the main attribute required for big walls!

Adrian

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
Post a Reply to "Boulder aid, 3-day trip."

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started