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Head Arete
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.7 from 39
votes
Routes in The Left Wall
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24 Hour Crack T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Barnacle TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bilge T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crustacean TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Full Sail T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Head Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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High Noon T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Melba T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Old Soaker T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sea Fever T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sinbad S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Tiger Shark TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Watergate TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Windward Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 5,770 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Joe Collins on Nov 12, 2008 |
| Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons
Details
For details visit:
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…
Description
If you have only one day to climb at Acadia, you should head out to the Otter Cliffs. But save an hour or two to head out to Great Head to do this incredible pitch. In contrast to the other sections of the cliff that have committing apporaches, Head Arete has a simple walking approach. It is somewhat tide dependent though, so pick a low tide window to head over or else the start will be wet.
At low tide, the climb starts just above waterline next to the sketchy traverse that accesses the middle part of the cliff. Clip the high first bolt, and then make a sketchy mantle manuever to get established on the climb. The cruxiest move comes at the 2nd bolt, where a powerful lieback gets you on to a beautiful headwall. The next section is why this climb is so classic: tricky, thoughtful, sustained 5.10 face climbing in a spectacular setting. The bolts are never so far apart that you could get seriously hurt, but big whippers are possible. A cam placement in this section helps with piece of mind. The great climbing, coupled with the fact that your belayer is out of sight and there is nothing but ocean beneath your feet, is what makes this pitch so memorable. The finish is harder than it looks, so think about it before committing.
One of the best pitches of trad face climbing anywhere.
At low tide, the climb starts just above waterline next to the sketchy traverse that accesses the middle part of the cliff. Clip the high first bolt, and then make a sketchy mantle manuever to get established on the climb. The cruxiest move comes at the 2nd bolt, where a powerful lieback gets you on to a beautiful headwall. The next section is why this climb is so classic: tricky, thoughtful, sustained 5.10 face climbing in a spectacular setting. The bolts are never so far apart that you could get seriously hurt, but big whippers are possible. A cam placement in this section helps with piece of mind. The great climbing, coupled with the fact that your belayer is out of sight and there is nothing but ocean beneath your feet, is what makes this pitch so memorable. The finish is harder than it looks, so think about it before committing.
One of the best pitches of trad face climbing anywhere.
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