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Routes in Coethedral Main
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Better than Sex S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bewitched S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bewitched (direct) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Coe-Priestly S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Coeconut bridge S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Dragon's Spine, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Excalibur S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gingerbread Shortcut, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gothic Rocks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gratitude S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Grey Ghost S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lava Flow S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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open project S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Rad, Plaid, and Glad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Runaway Weasel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Salathe Highway, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Trench Warfare S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Ujahn's Delight S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Upskirt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Bill Coe, ground up, roped solo 9/26/09 |
| Page Views: | 3,845 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | adam winslow on Aug 23, 2010 |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Description
5.6d This was the original route to the top of the pinnacle and was believed to be 5.5d on the first ascent but was later upgraded after the second ascent. The ambiguity of the rating is to indicate that although it may be low on the Yosemite scale of rating climbs, on the testicular shrinkage scale it's off the chart or as the scale chart shows us: above your throat pressing on your eyeballs.
No bolts at all were used on this route although a single 1/2" diameter redirect bolt was later added near the belay bolts to facilitate belaying a second following on the 2nd pitch of Trench Warfare and to make the belay less of a clusterF#ig for a party of 3. An off route bolt can be seen on Bewitched as you gain the upper part of the route near Witches neck but is not clipped.
From the anchor, climb up the space made by the semi-detached sub-pinnacle trying not to push it off until you can squeeze through to the other side of the pinnacle. Then head straight up and slightly right on her neck following the path of least resistance to the top of her head. The original single rope rap off the slings in her hair bun (while holding your breath that the hair buns stays attached) was replaced later with a 2 bolt rap off the back into the notch.
No bolts at all were used on this route although a single 1/2" diameter redirect bolt was later added near the belay bolts to facilitate belaying a second following on the 2nd pitch of Trench Warfare and to make the belay less of a clusterF#ig for a party of 3. An off route bolt can be seen on Bewitched as you gain the upper part of the route near Witches neck but is not clipped.
From the anchor, climb up the space made by the semi-detached sub-pinnacle trying not to push it off until you can squeeze through to the other side of the pinnacle. Then head straight up and slightly right on her neck following the path of least resistance to the top of her head. The original single rope rap off the slings in her hair bun (while holding your breath that the hair buns stays attached) was replaced later with a 2 bolt rap off the back into the notch.
Location
The start of the route is at a notch with a large tree 270' off the ground towards the left side of the cliff. This location can be reached by climbing Trench Warfare or P1 of Lava Flow, then The Gingerbread Shortcut up to this notch where you will find a nice 2-bolt Fixe sport anchor and a redirect bolt. From the summit rappel another pair of Fixe anchors back to the notch and from there, 3 single rope rappels down the Trench Warfare anchors.
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