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Open Grip

Original Post
Chag · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 45

I've had recurring finger problems for the past year or so. After trying quite a few things including what seems like it should be enough rest (climbing 2-3 times a week), talking to a few doctors, I still get a low level pain in my middle and ring by the base. I think it could be tenosynovitis or some other form of irritation, but I'm not sure.

I generally use a half-crimp (no thumb) when climbing. I've just started trying to use an open grip more. I've heard some people say this has helped them through similar issues, and I know some training gurus (Eric Horst and Neil Gresham) say that the open grip can be as strong as crimping on all but the smallest holds.

I'm wondering if anyone that has tried to switch to more open grip can share their experience, or if others have thoughts if it helps or doesn't, and how often to use it, etc.

Thanks for any help.

DFrench · · Cape Ann · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 465

My guess is that it really depends on the location and severity of the injury. I would imagine the open/closed thing is more relevant when you have an A2 or an A4 Pulley tear. But if you have pain way at the base of the finger then it might be your A1 or possibly a strain of the lumbrical muscles in your hand (which I had for a while and was convinced it was a tendon thing). I would maybe try a session of open and a session of closed crimping and see if you notice a difference in the aching afterwards. But, judging from your post, I bet you need more time off from climbing to get some real healing going.

Have you seen this clip? Finger Injury Treatment - Dave Macleod

Good Luck!

JJNS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 531

Are you saying that taking time off is climbing 2-3 days a week. If you want that thing to heal I would recommend taking at least two weeks off from climbing. After two weeks make sure you tape it when you climb and ice it after you climb. Aggressive massage in the tender area is a good idea. I've heard it helps break up the scar tissue.

One of the major negatives about climbing seems to be the constant cycle of injuries. I am just healing from a similar injury. It has taken all summer to come around to the point where its finally not hurting after a climbing day.

As far as the open grip vs. half crimp thing goes I can't even tell you what I use most often. I am definitely not thinking about which grip I should use on the upcoming hold prior to making contact with it. I do prefer open grip over crimping. It feels like less effort to me. Some thing I try to do when training is climb routes with the least amount of grip required to keep me on the wall. This seems to help me become aware of different levels of squeezing. Like, oh man I am squeezing so hard I better move quick or I'm going to pump out. Or like, oh man I am barley squeezing. I can totally recover here.

Not sure if this helps but good luck. I hope that finger stops bugging you. You could alway cut it off in a home remodeling accident.

Peter Beal · · Boulder Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,825
Joel Andersen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 10
JJNS wrote:Aggressive massage in the tender area is a good idea. I've heard it helps break up the scar tissue.
Scar tissue helps the initial healing process. You do not want to break it up.
JJNS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 531

Don't listen to me. I have no idea what I am talking about.

Chag · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 45

Thanks everyone for the replies.

Since my original post, I got and digested "One Move Too Many," which provides a description of tenosynovitis that matches my symptoms exactly (tendovaginitis in the book, which I am pretty sure is the German word for it). I think it is an excellent book, seems like a must for any climber that has issues with injuries (which seems like almost all of us).

I wish there was more detail out there on this, because it's hard to know the exact causes beyond climbing to much and best course of treatment beyond resting.

JJNS, I took a few months off after it first showed up, but I did climb a few times within this time to test it out, which I think dragged out the recovery. I've taken some longer rests of about a month after this too. But I am probably trying climbing too soon.

DFrench, I did actually try the cold water treatment when I first got the injury. I'm not sure how much it helped, as it never went away, but I only tried it for few weeks.

I'm guessing that more rest is probably the solution, so I'm going for that. Although I'm kind of surprised this thing is still coming back after I've been pretty careful and given it a bunch of long rests over a year.

To the original question about if an open grip can help, I'm pretty convinced it could, as every source I've seen says it puts less stress on the tendon system. However, the specifics of how often to use it don't seem clear. I'd still be interested if anyone has experience trying to switch to using the open grip more.

Jamie Logan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2004 · Points: 0

I have been climbing for over 40 years and my hands still work. The rule is never ever crimp unless you absolutely have to. If you start climbing open handed you will find you get almost as strong fairly quickly and I find my hand going into a crimp only if I'm really tired or need a single powerful pull. If you want to climb your whole life never crimp unless absolutely required.

jmapping · · Carbondale, co · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 766

I agree with Jim Logan to a large degree. Crimping puts more stress on your hand. Open handed tendon injuries tend to be the worst but happen less frequently. If you train your hands/arms to be strong in the open handed position it can help reduce injury a great deal.

I have had similar injuries in my hands and issues with both shoulders. All of which I have recovered from mostly. The one that lingers is in my finger. They never seem to go away.

Be careful who or what doctors you listen to. All of them mean well but climbing injuries are strange. I have had tremendous luck with immediate acupuncture, rest, and slow recover climbing (in that order). However, it is very dependent on your acupuncturist. Some are incredibly good and some not so much. It is unique to the patient and practitioner. I have had the most success with the traditional Korean style of acupuncture but this may just be because of the practitioner. Also, acupuncture is not a one time treatment. you will need to budget a number of visits to see long term results. The Southwest Acupuncture College ( acupuncturecollege.edu/coll…) in Gunbarell offers cheaper treatments. This clinic is set up to train students so don't expect the guru with 40 years of experience but, they always have a seasoned professional with them.

Hope this helps.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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