Worst Crag in Az?

I would say Jacks is the worst. Overbolted. Then I would say Sweet Rock. Over bolted. Then Munchinkin land. Overbolted. and some of the bolts are where there are gear placements. Very sad.

Dale,
So in your opinion we should all have to lug a rack to a "sport area" because one or two climbs may have one or two places were a stopper might go in??

Next time I see you out climbing I will expect you to clip every third bolt on all these over bolted routes, regardless of how hard the climbing is.

They're sport routes they're suppose to be safe.

Sport areas are not the venue to puff up your "hard trad guy" image, by bitching about too many bolts.

By the way how many routes have you put up that lots of other climbers are stoked to climb year after year??

Feel free to go find your own area and put in all the routes you want in the style you want.

I have a couple of thoughts about Jack's -

Pro's

1. The canyon is amazing and beautiful.
2. Civilization is not real close, yet the crag is easily accessable.
3. Most of the routes are clean (no loose blocks) and fun.
4. Thanks to Kyle and Aimee there is a sweet pooper in the campground.
5. On most weekdays you can have the place to yourself.
6. The canyon floor is mostly flat and is great for kids.

Con's

1. Some of the routes have chipped/drilled holds. This is a shame because it takes away from everything that the canyon has to offer. It also eclipses much of the hard work that the folks who opened Jacks put in.
2. The approach trail into the canyon is in need of some TLC.
3. Weekends can be very crowded. I have been there on days when every route on the Casino Cliff has a rope on it and there are packs of dogs running wild. Not exactly relaxing...

Personally, I don't climb at Jack's much anymore. I just prefer the style of climbing at Paradise Forks or the Oak Creek Waterfall area.

Jack's Canyon, Munchkinland, and to a lesser extent Sweet Rock are some of the most popular areas in the state. Sometimes it is nice to push your physical limits in a safe environment. These are great areas for groups and relaxed fun.

One just has to approach each crag with the appropriate mindset. Appreciate each area for what it is; and recognize what it isn't.

FYI here is the infamous list from Climbing Magazine circa 2002:

Worst:
The Sport Park (Boulder Canyon), CO
Seward Hwy, AK
Mt. Potosi, NV
Jack's Canyon, AZ
Virgin River Gorge, AZ

Best:
New River Gorge, WV
Joshua Tree, CA
Red River Gorge, KY
Rifle, CO
The Gunks, NY

bio wrote:People generally identify a crag as BAD if it satisfies one or more of the following conditions: a. The ratings are sandbagged and I got spanked. b. The rock isn't clean enough for me to feel gym-safe so I got scared. c. The approach made me work too hard. d. The bolts weren't close enough together for me to feel gym-safe so I got scared. e. The bolts are really close together so all those youngins with big muscles and no balls made me look bad. Should a crag meet any two of the above criteria ...

Clearly then, the worst crag is the big ditch, aka GCNP.

Tons of sandbagged routes, most routes have Approaches, rock pretty shitty in general, just missing the grid bolting.

(left wondering why I would even read a thread about a worst crag...
which btw, has yet to be developed as there are tons of crap in Az that some point in time will be developed when young climbers need to put their names on FA and all the other rock has been taken)

WOW!!! This is a easy question. Sedona, Iso, lower Devils, LDE, Winslow Wall, and Cochise are by far the worst crags in Az, be sure and stay far far away :) LOL why the hell is this even a topic! Just climb

Good Times
Joe Garcia

IM going with Joe... Boycott Arizona.. go climb at... anywhere but here :) Unless your willing to belay me in the McDowells and then .. well PM me

Just Go climb!

If you are not from Arizona; do NOT come to Arizona to CLIMB. All the areas suck. Stay away. If you are from Arizona, be grateful for the diversity in climbing that we have.....

If you come here to climb, you better make sure you have your papers!

Andrew Ryder wrote:http://mountainproject.com/v/arizona/snake_bridge/106181470

Ahhh come on thats my favorite crag :)