AMGA SPI course what to expect

Hey I am taking an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course this month, and I am trying to prepare for it.

Just wondered who out there took the course and what they thought of it. Also what should I be bomber on before the class to get the most out of it.

I just took the SPI course last month. I have been trad climbing for about 12 years. My primary reason for taking the course was to pick up a few tips/tricks and to possibly identify any short comings/bad habits in any of my climbing skills/systems. I am not looking to pursue a career as a guide/instructor.

Despite what the name of the course seems to indicate (single pitch) this is primarily a top rope course. The major emphasis is on teaching (what to teach and how to teach it)and setting up efficient and safe top rope anchors (belaying from both the top and the bottom).

I enjoyed the course and did learn a few tricks. My instructor was outstanding. It was good to be able to pick the brain of an AMGA guide for 3 days (I asked a lot of questions).

What should you prepare for before the course? Not knowing your climbing background/experience I can't tell what you already know.
However, you should be familar with:
- basic knots (including the Munter and mule)
- how to use a Grigri (AMGA is big on using this for beginner clients)
- placing pro on lead (up to 5.6)
- building belay anchors with gear using various systems(small emphasis at course)
- building top rope anchors using static line (major emphasis at course)
- rappeling
- how to prusik up a rope
- communication skills (i.e. eventually, if you follow through with assessment/test you will be teaching/leading clients)

Overall, I found the course of value. I'm glad I took it. Good luck.

Where are you taking your course? I'm taking mine at Colorado Mountain School in Boulder.

Ive been studying for it as well. My AMGA trainer took most of the information out of the John Long book...Read Climbing Anchors, Self Rescue and More Climbing anchors
He has been reviewing most of what I already know but

Practice making sure your belaying, rappelling techniques are sharp
Along with the use of the different styles of prussiks
and invest in a Gri Gri and Locking Beiners...

Also make sure you are comfortable rappelling with a prussik off your leg loop... They are sticklers about that redundancy

Best of Luck!

Shiloh
ClimbPHX.com

Ditto what these guys said. I think you can get a course syllabus of what you're expected to know. Go through the list, like Marty has listed here, and practice stuff you don't know or don't use very often. So, if you're not dialed on using a munter, practice it. You don't want to be thinking about how to tie a knot or set a friction hitch in the middle of the course. If you've got those basics dialed then you can spend more of your energies focusing on the teaching and management skills being taught.

Thanks for the info guys. Looking at the list of skills requirements I am not worried about not knowing the things they ask for, just being out of practice on things they emphasize.

My goals from this course are to get into guiding. I did some a few years past with a company out of colorado springs, but never recieved any certifications. The head guys were though and made sure we did everything right. This for me is a step in that direction, along with others such as my WFR.

Damseer, yes I am taking the one from Colorado Mtn School in boulder, aug 13-15. You taking that one? If so you will see me and a friend of mine there.

Thanks for the info guys, gotta go get more static rope though...

Travis,

As a former instructor/examiner involved in that program (formerly TRSMC), here are two major problems I saw with students:
One, most students focused too much on the technical aspect of the course and they were very poor at "group management". Work hard on running a site with a 6:1 ratio.

Two, most students were extremely slow building anchors. Remember, if you're training to be a guide/instructor, you are going to have people waiting on you to get TR stations set up. Practice hard on being really efficient building stations using a static rigging line, you'll be much faster in the long run mastering the use of this piece of equipment.

Good luck,

JF

cool, see you there.

Travis Merrill wrote: Thanks for the info guys, gotta go get more static rope though...

What are you needing? I have a 100 ft piece of static here (New England Ropes KMIII, 7/16") that it seems I'm never going to use. It's almost-but-not-exactly new. $50 + shipping.

Travis Merrill wrote:
Thanks for the info guys, gotta go get more static rope though...

What are you needing? I have a 100 ft piece of static here (New England Ropes KMIII, 7/16") that it seems I'm never going to use. It's almost-but-not-exactly new. $50 + shipping.

Wish you said that earlier. Just bought some online, will be here in a few days. But my friend might need it contact him on here his name is Jiles Perry.

J Fassett, thanks that is just what I was looking for. Gotta go get some practice now.

Seeya there Damseer.

FYI-

I'm offering AMGA SPI courses on Aug. 17-19 and Sept. 14-16 in Boulder and Estes Park. More info at climbinglife guides

Ditto what J. Fassett said in regard to course preparation and Marty's notes on the course format. Not sure what Shiloh is talking about as Mr. Longs books are not part of the course curriculum although there may be similarities.

The course manual which is included in the price is an excellent resource and it should be sent to you upon enrollment for study and preparation. You can also purchase separately the AMGA Technical Manual from the AMGA office which is a great overall resource for this and all the AMGA courses.

I've been teaching this course curriculum since '89 and it's really a great foundational course in guiding, and managing others and your own safety on the crags.

Climb on!

...

This thread reminded me of a post attributed to Peter Croft on another site regarding the AMGA.


"From two of their longtime member guides I found out that the AMGA initially promised concerned guides that they would never work towards having non member guides banned from any climbing areas - and if it did happen they would then disband.
Guess what happened?
This came into clear focus for me when, after years of guiding in Josh, I was banned from doing so in the future - unless I paid the AMGA a hundred bucks. Now I'm not saying that this was a blatant form of "protection" money - but I am dropping a pretty heavy hint.
No matter what, their urgent call for professionalism and safety for all would have carried more weight had I not met, on that same trip, a certified AMGA toprope instructor with 6 months climbing experience."

JML wrote:This thread reminded me of a post attributed to Peter Croft on another site regarding the AMGA. "From two of their longtime member guides I found out that the AMGA initially promised concerned guides that they would never work towards having non member guides banned from any climbing areas - and if it did happen they would then disband. Guess what happened? This came into clear focus for me when, after years of guiding in Josh, I was banned from doing so in the future - unless I paid the AMGA a hundred bucks. Now I'm not saying that this was a blatant form of "protection" money - but I am dropping a pretty heavy hint. No matter what, their urgent call for professionalism and safety for all would have carried more weight had I not met, on that same trip, a certified AMGA toprope instructor with 6 months climbing experience."

AMGA sucks....How much is this class costing you to TOP ROPE? I have met so many "AMGA" guides with no real life experience. Now there are some great ones out there, but it really just a fancy Outward Bound

Cota wrote: AMGA sucks....How much is this class costing you to TOP ROPE? I have met so many "AMGA" guides with no real life experience. Now there are some great ones out there, but it really just a fancy Outward Bound

I don't have any experience with the AMGA yet.....but isn't this course the first of many, and a requirement for any aspiring guide?

Francisco Di Poi wrote: I don't have any experience with the AMGA yet.....but isn't this course the first of many, and a requirement for any aspiring guide?

http://amga.com/images/misc_PDFs/Program_Flow_Chart.pdf

JJ Brunner wrote: amga.com/images/misc_PDFs/P…

The page didn't load anything but I am guessing it was a link to the steps that one has to follow to reach the level of rock climbing guide, alpine guide, and ski guide...all to eventually one day obtain the IMGA honor?...if that is what interests you

If it was then I have the same PDF printed out sitting in my room at home. I skimmed through it a year ago...hopefully one day I can obtain half of the skills needed to get to one of those levels

AMGA sucks....How much is this class costing you to TOP ROPE? I have met so many "AMGA" guides with no real life experience. Now there are some great ones out there, but it really just a fancy Outward Bound

I'm interested in why you think the AMGA "sucks." They are the only US guide certifying entity that is recognized by the IFMGA/UIAGM. They uphold an international standard for guiding practices. Wouldn't you want you doctor to have passed the MCATs?

Francisco Di Poi wrote: The page didn't load anything but I am guessing it was a link to the steps that one has to follow to reach the level of rock climbing guide, alpine guide, and ski guide...all to eventually one day obtain the IMGA honor?...if that is what interests you If it was then I have the same PDF printed out sitting in my room at home. I skimmed through it a year ago...hopefully one day I can obtain half of the skills needed to get to one of those levels

That's weird, yep, it's that flowchart. Also shows where you can start depending on what kind of certification you want. I'm hoping I get out and climb enough in the next few years so I can meet the prerequisites for the rock instructor course soon after I finish college!

But my point was that you don't have to take the single pitch course, you can jump right into the rock instructor course then from there eventually become a certified amga rock and/or alpine guide.

Am I wrong?

You can enter into the Rock discipline through either the SPIC or the RIC. The RIC course prerequisite include 50 multi-pitch routes 10 of which should be grade III or longer. A complete list can be found here.
RIC requirements.