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Worst Precedents in Climbing History

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Orphaned · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 11,560

I miss read JML's dumb topic and it got me thinking. What do you think is the worst precedent in climbing history?

My opinion:

The "Compressor Route" on Cerro Torre. The Maestri AND Lama debacles.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

Whatever euro-dickwad that decided leaving any garbage on a mountain or cliff was cool. It's probably more of a collective precedent.

Oh, good recent one(s), hitting the PLB for anything other than needing a real rescue --

While on the Cassin: "our wine & cheese is running low --- Jorge, hit the beacon. We MUST have more wine!!"

(granted, it is borderline, but just barely so)

JML · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 30

Whoever started a thread by mimicking the title of an existing thread.

rob bauer · · Golden, CO · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 3,929

In an effort to steer this in the right direction, I started climbing when Ford was president, so that was good. Did a 5.11 in 81 which was good, but got tendonitis pretty bad later on while Reagan was still president, so that's obviously mixed (maybe 1st part good, second term bad.) Reinjured the tendonitis under GWBush, so that was clearly bad. Now I'm doing pretty well, so I guess Obama gets a plus. (Maybe it's too early to tell?) I hope this helps the thread. (Gee, I think this was supposed to be on the other "Presidents" thread.)

JML · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 30

People that gripe about non-climbing subjects even when they are posted in the COMMUNITY forum which is reserved for threads NOT NECESSARILY ABOUT CLIMBING. Whoever set that precedent needs to be thumped.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
rob bauer wrote:In an effort to steer this in the right direction, I started climbing when Ford was president, so that was good. Did a 5.11 in 81 which was good, but got tendonitis pretty bad later on while Reagan was still president, so that's obviously mixed (maybe 1st part good, second term bad.) Reinjured the tendonitis under GWBush, so that was clearly bad. Now I'm doing pretty well, so I guess Obama gets a plus. (Maybe it's too early to tell?) I hope this helps the thread. (Gee, I think this was supposed to be on the other "Presidents" thread.)
abuot the same progression as Rob. Start during Nixon's last days ini office, first 5.11 during Reagan, more tendonitis during Clinton, a broken leg while ice climbing during Dubya's reign, and now old guy weaknesses filled with shame into the Obama years. Does this tell me where our country is going?
Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,265

I believe that future generations will determine that accepting aid "climbing" as a legitimate form of ascent was the worst precedent in climbing history, and they will laugh at our silly games and arguments as they warm up on our projects.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
Mike Anderson wrote:I believe that future generations will determine that accepting aid "climbing" as a legitimate form of ascent was the worst precedent in climbing history, and they will laugh at our silly games and arguments as they warm up on our projects.
I beg to differ as those pioneers who aided up routes, found the key to future free ascents by revealing the route and the hidden cracks that became classic free routes in latter years. They set a great precedent.
Cota · · Bend OR · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 0

Well, I dont know the worst, but the best might be ole Honest Abe, he first protected Yosemite, so he has to be up there, right?
He is WAY better than that fat guy that I mentioned in the other (better) topic

JML · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 30

You folks are master exaggerators. I have started FOUR non-climbing threads in the last TWO MONTHS. I have started FOUR climbing threads in the same time period.

Quit whining, knuckleheads. And instead of whining about my "lack of logic" why don't you try answering with some "logic" of your own. You'd rather cry about the minuscule amount of threads I start.

JohnL, that was the stupidest post on this site. It is my detractors who refuse to address my posts in a rational matter and instead start talking about me. Typical of your type...attack the messenger and make it about him rather than responding to the message. You people are making me tired.

Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,265
Woodchuck ATC wrote: I beg to differ as those pioneers who aided up routes, found the key to future free ascents by revealing the route and the hidden cracks that became classic free routes in latter years. They set a great precedent.
They also inspired several generations to squander their talent by establishing an abysmally low standard of success...that climbing nylon ladders is a legitimate ascent.

You can still aid up a wall to discover a free route...the issue is, once you have done that do you consider the job finished, or do you keep working until you have CLIMBED it?

Imagine what could have happened if those talented athletes had a higher bar? Look at guys like Royal Robbins or Fred Beckey, who seemed to never quit until they summitted; if their minimum standard had been higher, maybe the RNWF of HD would have gone free in the 60s! Suddenly John Gill wouldn't have seemed like such an oddball "wasting his time" on boulders and maybe El Cap would have been freed in the 70s. Who knows...?
Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

Clearly it was when guys stopped wearing Lycra in favor of bluejeans/Carharts.
The Lycra era was our Golden Age.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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