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City of Rocks, NM, October 31st, 2009, A Bouldering Story

Original Post
Phillip Buster · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 0

It was a brisk cool morning that day, and my wife and I woke up early in the morning eager to spend the weekend bouldering and spending time with each other. My wife, who climbs only to spend time with me, was very generous in letting us go on this trip because today was her birthday, so I was planning to surprise her later that evening with a little celebration. I was very excited about the day because it was to be my first bouldering competition; a friendly competition to get me ready for my first ABS competition in November.

About mid-morning I was climbing a problem I had dubbed back-bender, due to its awkward start position, and I was feeling very strong. I had climbed this problem six months earlier and was using it as a gauge to check my progression. I made very quick progress on the problem and finally asked for my friends and family to spot me and watch me send it. A close friend of mine stood by to spot me in case I came off wrong and my wife stood by to cheer me on.

I felt strong, my hands and feet moved through the holds, and finally I reached it, the crux. With one hard grunt and dynamic move I reached the top of the problem, a nice jug. All I had left to do was a pullup and then walk off the back of the problem (not before doing the obligatory super hero poses for my wife and her camera of course.) At 10 feet of the ground, I felt I wanted to make my final move safe, so I reached up with my other hand and grabbed the jug so that I could shake out my arms and play it safe to the top.

As I let go with my other hand I flagged out my right leg, applying some rotational torque to the hold. Dooosh. A low bassy sound broke the silence and rolled through the air. "Oh, Phil", said my friend in a morbid and melancholy voice. I looked up to find a 600 pound boulder rushing to crush my head and chest. Apparently I dislodged it with the rotational force I applied when I flagged my foot.

I immediately shoved at the boulder and tried to spin out from underneath it. Thud. It was so silent you could hear the anxious breaths of my friends and family. I hit the ground facing away from the boulder, which landed blocking the view of my friends, so the crowd waited anxiously for my reaction.

No pain! I made it. The boulder missed me by inches. Then I turned over to stare at my leg in horror, "those are my arteries, and that fountain of blood is MY blood", I screamed to myself. The boulder crushed the lower half of my right leg bursting it open, shattering my tibia, severing three arteries, degloving my heel (essentially peeling it off like a banana) and totally disintegrating about a third of my foot.

"That's it, this is how I'm going to die. I'm not coming home from this one", I thought to myself. Soon after the shock, survival mode set it. I began ordering people to tourniquet my leg and the scene went from muffled horror to campground ER. My wife, a nursing student, panicked at first, but about two minutes later she was calm and rational, packing my foot full of gauze bandages and 4x4's. My friend that was spotting me applied the tourniquet to my leg and we called 911.

After the initial shock had warn off, reality began to settle back in. I was dying. My leg, tourniquetted, was still bleeding, and I was losing lots of blood. My friend on the tourniquet was crying while my wife held me in her arms and prayed with me and sang Amazing Grace to me.

The last thing I wanted to do was die in my wife's arms. I fought for my life. I wasn't afraid to die, but I didn't want to go this way, I couldn't let the last memory my wife had of me be dying in her arms. I fought off shock for about 45min until the ambulance arrived, great, a bunch of volunteer EMT's in civilian clothes (for the record, I drove to the campground the night before faster than they got there running code)... "We need to splint that leg", they exclaimed, pulling out a cardboard split, "its broken." "The heck you are", I sniped back, "I'm bleeding out, how about we focus on that!"

For the record, EMT's cannot administer pain medication, and its been about an hour since the accident and I am still laying in the dirt with my leg blown open writhing in pain. I put myself on the stretcher because I figured I had a better shot of getting myself safely on it than this group of people did that showed up to "rescue me".

The plan was to drive down the highway and meet two paramedics who were driving our direction so that they could take over care. Finally after about 1hr 30min we reached the paramedics and they began administering pain medication.

To make a long story short, I arrived at a community hospital where I was later airlifted (as I was being lifted into the helicopter I smiled and turned to my wife and told her, "see I told you I'd surprise you on your birthday!") to UMC El Paso, a level one trauma center, and the worst hospital I have ever been to, where it was discovered I had lost over half my blood. I never lost consciousness, which is amazing because the doctors were surprised I was even still alive. I immediately received 5 blood transfusions and was rushed into surgery. God saved my life, physiologically I should have been dead, yet I never even lost consciousness and was able to carry on a "normal" conversation.

About 7 days later I was flown to UMC in Tucson, AZ where I underwent an additional 4 surgeries to try and save my leg. I was given a 30% chance to keep my leg. These days you can find me in UMC Physical Therapy walking on the leg that doctors said would never heal, and the only remaining question is whether or not I will be able to run again. We shall see!

Lessons Learned:

1) Never climb alone. My friends and wife saved my life that day.
2) Accidents happen, never climb alone. Not even the best climbers can mentally will rocks to hold together forever. The rock was solid one direction and nearly killed me the other direction.
3) If possible, when climbing off the beaten path, check all the holds no matter how great they appear.

Side Notes

  • I can't wait to start climbing again. I've been a few times indoors, but I believe in about another month I'll be able to fit my foot into a large climbing shoe.

PS, I several pretty graphic photos I can post if you guys want to see them. They range from about 10 minutes after the accident through several stages in my recovery process. I didn't post them initially because of there extreme graphic nature.
Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,265

I'm glad you're OK, and welcome to MP. That's the sort of situation where you would never think you are in that much danger, then things change in an instant. Kinda like driving.

Lucas Barth · · Moab, UT · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 446

Wow, you are really lucky. Glad you'll be back climbing again soon

sfotex · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 225

Mad props to the volunteer EMT's for having to put up with ungrateful
people like you.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

There are always more perspectives in any given accident. If this forum is a good place to find a therapeutic value for recovery, then more power to Phillip. I don't really agree with the tone used, though.

Phillip, you have a second chance at life, why not focus on that than bashing people for helping you out for the risk you accepted at what looks like a remote location? You made your own bed so to speak.

I honestly have no problem with responders getting to you safely or a conservation steward, who probably had no medical training or equipment to do any good anyway, stepping out of the way than endangering themselves or others to your problem. Maybe something like this could have inspired them to get more responder training to help if they didn't already have it. I have a feeling their side of this story is probably different than what has been written thus far.

But coming back to threaten their lives just shows what waste of effort people made for you and your family. Maybe next time a boulderer goes down, nobody shows up or they just close it down alltogether; would that accomplish anything?

Certainly there are always things to improve upon when rendering aid to any accident, though I'd rather focus on your recovery, lessons learned while out bouldering, and being a positive member of the community.

Reed Fee · · White Salmon WA · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 155

Im glad you didnt die but show a little respect for the medical system that was in place in a remote area. Amazing grace probably wasnt going to work.

flyk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 0

We can't help it that you came across like a dick.

BackCountry Sortor · · Ogden, UT · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 400
flyk wrote:We can't help it that you came across like a dick.
And continue to come across like a dick...

I'm sorry about your accident and happy you're recovering, but you'd probably be a lot better off if you let it go and focus on recovery.
Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145
Phillip Buster wrote: By the way, you're welcome for your freedom, I'm one of those "ungrateful people" that fight so you don't have to.
Why don't you take yourself off that pedestal you f'n pussy.
Phillip Buster · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 0

All,

I think what you are all missing is that what angers me most is that basic, fundamental lifesaving techniques were overlooked, and it nearly cost me my life--my wife was almost a widow. Think about that. Just because you are a volunteer doesn't give you the green light for ignorance, this isn't building homes for Fanny May, this is taking on the *responsibility* of responding to potential life threatening situations.

Again, its nice that people want to volunteer, but if you aren't going to put in the time to learn and be knowledgeable, you WILL eventually get someone killed. Maybe the next time that unit will responds it will be a car accident and some father of four will lose his life to mistreatment. If you wear the uniform, you better have the answers, otherwise when people look to you for help you'll just be in the way.

Nobody forces a volunteer to help, so if you want to help then please learn your trade, and if you can't put in the time to learn, then don't volunteer. Can you imagine if my wife was a widower because somebody just wanted to buff up their resume with volunteer work and never took their job seriously? We put our faith in their help, when we could have taken care of it on our own, and it made things worse.

BackCountry Sortor · · Ogden, UT · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 400

I'm not suggesting "how it is," or how grateful you should be that incompetent people came to rescue you; I'm simply suggesting you'd probably be a lot better off if you let it go and focus on recovery, and climbing again.

You posted this with a tone that comes off as ungrateful and selfish. You took your wife bouldering, which she only does to spend time with you... on her birthday. You're likening yourself to Brett Favre (who didn't post anything). It all reads as very pretentious and, although your story is a seriously sad one, It's hard to feel too sorry for you.

What did you expect Buster?

I'm sure your a nice guy that's coming across wrong. Good luck with the climbing and I hope you get back to where you were, (having FUN) very soon.

BackCountry Sortor · · Ogden, UT · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 400
Phillip Buster wrote: By the way, you're welcome for your freedom, I'm one of those "ungrateful people" that fight so you don't have to.
Wait, I missed this gem. I take back that nice guy comment. I pretty sure you're just a conceited twit.
rafael · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 35

jeez guys, this isnt Rockclimbing.com
everyone just let mr pised that he didnt get driven to a hospital stew in his on anger that he busted his leg in the boonies. Anytime I climb in the boonies I expect fully to have to do a complete self rescue.

sevrdhed · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 155
Phillip Buster wrote: By the way, you're welcome for your freedom, I'm one of those "ungrateful people" that fight so you don't have to.
I'm really glad you threw this in, especially in a thread about volunteers who did a poor job. Just makes the whole thing that much more interesting. I'd say thank you for your service, but how do I know you even did a good job?
sfotex · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 225
rafael wrote:jeez guys, this isnt Rockclimbing.com everyone just let mr pised that he didnt get driven to a hospital stew in his on anger that he busted his leg in the boonies. Anytime I climb in the boonies I expect fully to have to do a complete self rescue.
I thought he was expecting a MASH unit to descend from the sky and operate on him where he had fallen.

Really, your alive because you were lucky, not because of what someone did or didn't do...
pfwein Weinberg · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2006 · Points: 71
Phillip Buster wrote: By the way, you're welcome for your freedom, I'm one of those "ungrateful people" that fight so you don't have to.
OK I'll bite: whom are you fighting that I would have to fight if you weren't fighting them?

Are you sure that your fighting isn't actually increasing the chance that someone is going to want to fight me, in retaliation for your fighting them?

I know this is a climbing site, not a fighting site, but you can add me to the list of people whom your smug attitude is irritating. Still, sux you apparently got poor medical treatment and hope you recover well.
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

i'm thinking phil bust was was a thespian in high school, considering all the drama and everything...

Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90

This post is particularly interesting, considering that a friend of mine went through a very similar situation about a month ago while out bouldering.
The main difference being that it was his wife that was injured, he had one other person there and they had their 2yr old w/ them. That and the fact that calling EMS wasn't an option given no cell reception, they were a minimum of 30 minutes (uninjured hiking) in from the trailhead and then another 40+ minutes drive to the nearest hospital.
They managed to get the situation under control and get themselves out and to medical care unassisted.
I guess that in some sense you get what you pay for, there is nothing that says you have to accept volunteer help. If you feel that the care is inadequate then refuse it and deal w/ the problem yourself.

I'd have to agree w/ Rafael, climbing isn't the safest thing you can do, if I'm in the middle of nowhere then it's on me to deal w/ whatever happens and accept the consequences that come w/ playing the game.

Doug Foust · · Oroville, WA · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 165
Phillip Buster wrote: I'm actually a pretty easy going guy, and what funny about this post is that I am actually incredibly grateful to even be alive, and even more so to be able to climb again. What irritates me though is when people who weren't there want to tell me how it is, and how grateful I should be that incompetent people came to rescue me and in all likelyhood exacerbated the situation and brought me closer to death. These same people with all their "wisdom" about what "really happened" wouldn't have a darn thing to offer my wife had I died, so I don't know why they feel like they have the right to weigh in now.
One thing I've found in life...if someone has to tell you what kind of person they are....they usually aren't
Robert Buswold · · Northglenn, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 80
Phillip Buster wrote: By the way, you're welcome for your freedom, I'm one of those "ungrateful people" that fight so you don't have to.
Yep, you're a douche. I was in the military for quite a while... trust me, I know what all the 'fighting' is about. Wasting tax-payers dollars. Get out of the military, quit bitching, and hey... how about become an EMT so you can do it all the right way? Maybe then you could actually do something *USEFUL* for people. Sucks that you got hurt, and sucks that it wasn't great care, but if you've got a tourniquet and the cars are a few feet away, drive to the hospital dummy... instead of waiting for someone else to drive out there to get your gimpy ass.
Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145
Doug Foust wrote: One thing I've found in life...if someone has to tell you what kind of person they are....they usually aren't
I swear I'm a total dickhead
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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