Man With a Hueco in His Tights
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 181 votes
Type: | Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
FA: | Dr. Steve Johnson - the bird guy |
Page Views: | 7,817 total · 38/month |
Shared By: | Ladd Raine on Apr 14, 2007 · Updates |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Classic at the grade.
Stick clip first bolt, which until it is replaced, is likely a spinner, making that a challenge.
Start low on a very textured large hold and get high feet, extend up and left to gain another rail-ish type hold that is interesting, get high feet and either go up and left to catch the flake in an undercling or go out right to catch the arete and couple of heucos and some more interesting moves to eventually gain the flake 4 feet above the bottom undercling. Continue up the flake (it is solid to pull on, just not for gear)to gain the jugs to clip the anchors.
NOTE COMMENT:"The undercling flake mentioned in the beta description is currently "X"ed and will be breaking off within weeks if not days. I've climbed this route a dozen plus times over the years and am super familiar with how much it previously flexed, but it's at the point where it needs to be reinforced or [it's] coming off "
Harder for shorter climbers.
A great climb for the 5.11- climber to work out/tick.
A great climb to burn out on for the 5.11-5.12 climber.
Be careful cleaning on the lower that you don't pendulum into the rock behind you. It may be better to have someone clean while seconding.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTmY_5u-tko&feature=youtu.be
Stick clip first bolt, which until it is replaced, is likely a spinner, making that a challenge.
Start low on a very textured large hold and get high feet, extend up and left to gain another rail-ish type hold that is interesting, get high feet and either go up and left to catch the flake in an undercling or go out right to catch the arete and couple of heucos and some more interesting moves to eventually gain the flake 4 feet above the bottom undercling. Continue up the flake (it is solid to pull on, just not for gear)to gain the jugs to clip the anchors.
NOTE COMMENT:"The undercling flake mentioned in the beta description is currently "X"ed and will be breaking off within weeks if not days. I've climbed this route a dozen plus times over the years and am super familiar with how much it previously flexed, but it's at the point where it needs to be reinforced or [it's] coming off "
Harder for shorter climbers.
A great climb for the 5.11- climber to work out/tick.
A great climb to burn out on for the 5.11-5.12 climber.
Be careful cleaning on the lower that you don't pendulum into the rock behind you. It may be better to have someone clean while seconding.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTmY_5u-tko&feature=youtu.be
29 Comments