Looking up the route from the Lower Saddle. There is a well-defined trail that passes by the Exum Huts at the bottom of the Lower Saddle, up to the the "Black Dike" which can be seen protruding out in this photo. You will pass just left of, then cross behind the Black Dike before the trail steepens and passes in front of, and to the left of, the large pyramid-shaped "Needle." The trail moves left under the Needle and will pass by the "Chockstone Chimney" which will be on the right going up the Needle. Continue about another 100 feet and there will be a small black "staircase" about 2 feet wide climbing up to the right. It's very prominent. Climb this black rock staircase. At the top of the staircase you must traverse right and a little up to swing back around to the "Eye of the Needle" or alternately you can bypass the eye by continuing more or less straight up with some low Class 5 moves. Once you have passed the Needle, to do the Owen-Spalding route you will want to stay on the left side of the large ridge feature as you climb to the Upper Saddle. The trail is not well defined here, but there are many ways to the top. Just stay on the left side of the ridge and be prepared for a lot of class 3 and class 4 climbing to get to the upper saddle.

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Rich F.

Jul 31, 2010

“Looking up the route from the Lower Saddle. There is a well-defined trail that passes by the Exum Huts at the bottom of the Lower Saddle, up to the the "Black Dike" which can be seen protruding out in this photo. You will pass just left of, then cross behind the Black Dike before the trail steepens and passes in front of, and to the left of, the large pyramid-shaped "Needle." The trail moves left under the Needle and will pass by the "Chockstone Chimney" which will be on the right going up the Needle. Continue about another 100 feet and there will be a small black "staircase" about 2 feet wide climbing up to the right. It's very prominent. Climb this black rock staircase. At the top of the staircase you must traverse right and a little up to swing back around to the "Eye of the Needle" or alternately you can bypass the eye by continuing more or less straight up with some low Class 5 moves. Once you have passed the Needle, to do the Owen-Spalding route you will want to stay on the left side of the large ridge feature as you climb to the Upper Saddle. The trail is not well defined here, but there are many ways to the top. Just stay on the left side of the ridge and be prepared for a lot of class 3 and class 4 climbing to get to the upper saddle.”

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Beta photo with tons of useful info copied from http://wyomingwhiskey.blogspot.com/. Check out their web site for an updated photo and much more info.

Dan Carson checking out the upper OS, January.

A father and son team wandering off route looking for the OS with Jackson Lake in the back ground.

The Second Rappel Is A Bit Airy,
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Blake Cassagranda On Rappel

Setting up the 120ft rappel to the Upper Saddle

Panoramic view from Owen Spalding early September.

View from the summit looking back northeast towards Jackson Lake.

March 5, 2018, unusually dry and easy looking conditions and light rime accumulations, caused by severe winds.

Blake Cassagranda Climbing The Upper Pitch Of OS

Taking a quick break to put on the crampons on the way up to the upper saddle. Middle Teton is straight across and the lower saddle is the rock scree far below in the center.

map supplied by park service showing trail to upper saddle and locations of water. no bear cannisters needed at upper saddle as their are food boxes. no need to bring water as you can fuel up all the way to the saddle.

Enjoying the view while preparing for a long day ahead

View from upper saddle. Smoke from the fires made things kinda hazy. Aug. 2015

Headwall dividing the Moraine campground from the Lower Saddle. The "fixed rope" would be on the right side, but at the end of July climbers are still crossing the headwall up the snow -- an ice axe is definitely recommended. (Photo credit: Dave G)

The most exposed moves on the route in my opinion.

Brennen rapping off the second anchor. We combined our rope with another party's

The Enclosure from just before the belly roll on a late summit day.

view looking back through the eye of the needle (which is the lower black hole in the photo). this will be your view when descending.

At the top of the Double Chimney looking down over the North Face.

Ben rappelling back down to the Upper Saddle after summiting via the Owen Spalding route

Starting the 120' rap down to the upper saddle.

Dave G. at the entry to the "Eye of the Needle."

The most exciting part of Owen spalding. Lots of beautiful exposure!

Dave G. on the trail descending just above the Black Dike. Well below you can just make out the Exum Huts at the bottom of the Lower Saddle. The trail passes right in front of those huts.

Ian making some exposed moves beyond The Crawl on "Owen Spalding" in mid September

The rappel down across the OS, saving a lot of time.

Exposure at the second entrance to the Double Chimney.

Helicopter landing on the glacier in the moraine

Starting up the double chimney on the Owen Spalding Route

Sam soloing up the owen chimney above me. Fortunately, there was only a little ice that day

Me and my buddy Mitch on the summit of the Grand.

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