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efulltower
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Jul 19, 2010
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 5
Hey everyone, I recently attempted the slicksides route, boulder style, found in the pot holes area in Taylors Falls and I was wondering if anyone knows what its boulder rating is? Unfortunately, I was unsuccessful and left with a broken leg but I'm just curious. Climb on, Eric
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Tom Hanson
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Jul 20, 2010
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 950
If I recall, it is given a 5.9 rating which is V0- V0 / 5.10 and under V1 / 5.11- V2 / 5.11 V3 / 5.11+ V4 / 5.12- etc Slickslides has been downclimbed ropeless and blindfolded as far back as the late '70's
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josh wabaunsee
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Jul 20, 2010
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2007
· Points: 60
Sorry to hear of your injury, hoping a quick and speedy recovery. Slicksides is oldschool 5.9 That rock at the base has eaten many an ankle. Ive wondered many times if it were 100' feet tall, what the grade might be like? 5.11? watch out for anything FA'ed 30+ years ago with a rating of 5.9 run away if the rating is 5.9+ Get well soon!!!
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Matthew Carlson
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Jul 20, 2010
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 0
Yeah I tried bouldering that route the other day when I didn't have anybody with. I would only get about half way up before that rock in the landing zone would freak me out and I'd jump clear of it. Props to people who can boulder this.
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efulltower
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Jul 21, 2010
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 5
Josh-Thanks for the advise on climbing the old school rated routes there! I keep forgetting that not all the routes are up to date with the current climbing difficulty. I now realize that if I want to boulder that route, sometime in the future, I would definitely need to set up a TR to figure out the moves! Matt-You are absolutely right about the rock that is at the dead center of where you need to land! haha... You did something I did not when you climbed that route; I did not look down. Therefore, I did not know how high I was until I was already taking the fall. Not the brightest idea! ha
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josh wabaunsee
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Jul 22, 2010
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2007
· Points: 60
I could insert the old guy ratings/shoe/chalk/blah blah blah rant here, but being that im neither good enough nor old enough i will let it rest. Just be assured that the route is indeed 5.9. Now it is a 5.9 that when your feet blow 10 feet up there is little chance for recovery and you will hit the ground. Power does little for this route...
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1Eric Rhicard
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Jul 23, 2010
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Tucson
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 10,101
Learned to climb at TF in 1975 and have been climbing ever since. At the end of every day we climbed on the MN side we TRd that thing until we could do it. By the end of the year I was going up the left angling one and down the other ropeless. That was in Blue suede RRs.
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Bruce C
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Jul 29, 2010
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2005
· Points: 45
Tom Hanson wrote:downclimbed ropeless and blindfolded... ..with a pack and in the rain. For the record - I recall Tom H. may have been the one to do that. :) Bruce
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Joel Andersen
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Jul 29, 2010
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2008
· Points: 10
efulltower wrote: Matt-You are absolutely right about the rock that is at the dead center of where you need to land! haha... You did something I did not when you climbed that route; I did not look down. Therefore, I did not know how high I was until I was already taking the fall. Not the brightest idea! ha Sounds like you got lucky you didn't crack your head on anything. What do you mean you didn't look down? I mean, you obviously started at the base...it didn't go through your mind at all to check the landing? Don't forget your common sense next time you go climbing. Edit: Changed "wits" to "common sense."
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