Direct S. Buttress of Mt. Moran Question

I have a question for any persons who have climbed the route.

Do you think it be feasible for a climber comfortable free-soloing 5.7 to climb ropeless to the top of the eight pitch, then self-belay the double-pendy pitch and C1 pitch/es to the top of the tenth pitch?

I'm hoping to make it up to the Tetons for a week or so of easy soloing and scrambling - and this route's been on my mind for quite a while. Studying the topo in the Ortenburger/Jackson guide it appears that a couple of fith class sections on the lower pitches can be bypassed with 4th class traverses - is that accurate? Rock quality? Routefinding? Are the 5.8 sections stiff/soft/accurate for the grade? a lot of subjective opinion, I know, but I'd appreciate any first-hand knowledge.

Thanks.

Find a partner and do the S But Right instead. It's a much better route. If you want to do the whole south side to the summit do the Blackfin. It doesn't have the aid stuff to deal with and its got alot of easier but fun climbing. One other thing the descent off the direct is a bit of pain in the butt.

Hmmm... my simul-climb comfort level is also about 5.7, so maybe this will translate.

We simul'd the first 6 or so pitches in a single push, with a quick belay thrown in on the first 5.7ish section. From the 'chimney' pitches on, we pitched it out and I'm glad we did. I thought the most exciting lead was the wild flake to the 5.8 ledge / traverse getting to the double pendulum... killer exposure and a couple thin, slabby face moves getting around the prow. Personally I wouldn't solo that section if 5.7 was my comfort level. 5.8 felt accurate, but it's definitely not a 'secure' 5.8.

As for self-belaying the pendulum pitch - no experience so I won't comment, other than to say the aid was short but sweet, unbelievably exposed, and we french-freed without dedicated aid gear.

We found the topo very accurate and were somewhat baffled by numerous reports of parties getting lost all over the route. Routefinding was straightforward, just keep your eyes up so you're aiming for the chimneys Ortenburger describes. And yep, the 5.8 'loose, steep' corner can be bypassed with an easy 3rd class traverse. Rock quality: tale of two routes. Variable and often loose on the first several pitches, then very solid from the chimneys on.

Honestly, I'd check the ranch or something and grab a strong partner. Are you planning to push to the summit? We soloed the entire upper south ridge and came down CMC with wet slabs and melting snow (should be dry now). Despite topping out DSB before noon, it was after midnight before we were back at camp. It's a big mountain, and I'm glad we chose to summit... but it's one of those things I'll probably only do once.

Teton rock is the most dangerous thing to solo on in my fairly extensive experience in the U.S., Canada, and Europe. Sure, there is much worse rock in other places, but the Tetons have more of the really insidious "looks fine but isn't" type of holds than any other place I've been to.

Personally, I barely survived having such a hold break while soloing the Jensen Ridge. There is no way, in retrospect, to even remotely suspect the thing that gave way while I was liebacking off it. I know of a number of other such incidents, including other soloing fatalities and some very bad accidents.

Of course, the overwhelming majority of Teton climbs go off without a hitch. Still, I think the odds against the soloist are higher there. Just something to think about...

George Montopoli (Jenny Lake ranger) said he did just what you're proposing to do. After climbing the route, however, I realize that George likely had extensive experience with the route to pull it off. I would in no way think of that terrain as 5.7 solo terrain, and I've soloed harder than that number-wise. As rgold says, there are so many factors with Teton rock and routes that mitigate against these types of solos for all but a very select few.

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the feedback. I'll most likely hold off on that route unless I find a partner.