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Routes in Midnight Rock
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After Hours Superpowers S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Around Midnight S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Caboose, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cage, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Caged Bird of Pray T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cirque du Soleil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Crack a Smile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Deus Ex Machina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dyno Mart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Engine, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flake Out AKA Flake Roof S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Geminae Cracks S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Grande Finale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Hack a Drone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hammer Down S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Jet Stream T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Karma Chameleon S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Meltdown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Midnight Cowboy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Midnight Express S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pirate Radar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pirate Radar Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Rycessica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Serp du Soleil S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Stroke of Midnight, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Union with Earth S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Voila S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Weather Report S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Nelson, Rolofson, Reynolds, 1999 |
| Page Views: | 815 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | david goldstein on Sep 29, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
I have mixed feelings about this pitch. The crux section provides 4m of high quality, engrossing technical crack climbing; however, it is also poorly bolted with the 5th bolt located completely unnecessarily smack in the middle of the crux, at a terrible clip position from which you will almost certainly crater into a ledge if you blow said clip. What's worse is that there are many obvious possible gear placements throughout the crux from which placing is much easier than clipping the 5th bolt. Rolofson's guide says nothing about gear advised which just salts the wound. Note: there is a bomber #2 Rock placement in the middle of the crux, at a spot where it is possible to hang and place; while this placement is not very far above the 4th bolt, it is enough to allow one to safely complete the crux sequence before clipping the 5th bolt.
The starting moves on this pitch are somewhat interesting as is the finish. Rolofson indicates the direct finish (obvious, recommended) is 5.11, but it is much easier than the crux.
The starting moves on this pitch are somewhat interesting as is the finish. Rolofson indicates the direct finish (obvious, recommended) is 5.11, but it is much easier than the crux.
Location
This is about 10m right of Weather Report at a 6m long, right-facing corner leading to a ledge and crack.
Photos
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2 Comments