We opted to rappel down the South Face Direct route. Walk down this sloping ledge system. We did a single rope rap from the first station (one bolt and two pitons) to a large ledge system, and a double rope rap from the second station (two bolts) to the saddle between NRE and MRE.

All Locations > New Mexico > Las Cruces Area… > Organ Mountains > Rabbit Ears Area > N Rabbit Ear > Boyer's Chute (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c)

We opted to rappel down the South Face Direct route. Walk down this sloping ledge system. We did a single rope rap from the first station (one bolt and two pitons) to a large ledge system, and a double rope rap from the second station (two bolts) to the saddle between NRE and MRE.

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If you do not see this on your way to Boyer's Chute, you are off track.

This was where we first roped up. As you can see, a very confident climber could probably manage with no rope for this first section.

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Robert Cort

Jul 24, 2010

“We opted to rappel down the South Face Direct route. Walk down this sloping ledge system. We did a single rope rap from the first station (one bolt and two pitons) to a large ledge system, and a double rope rap from the second station (two bolts) to the saddle between NRE and MRE.”

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Nearby Photos

Looking down from the top of the first chock-stone. James coming up. Easy climbing on the left (looking down), but hard to protect, protectable but harder on the right (looking down).

my father coming up the crux chimney

"It's a bird...it's a plane...!" I have no idea what they're looking at, but this gives a good view of the ledge system at the bottom of the first (single rope) rappel off of the NRE via South Face direct route.

View from the summit

Start of the route. Photo Ryan J. Conklin.

Much of the approach in through this rocky dry riverbed.

Cactus flowers.

Looking up at our rappel route (South Face Direct) from the NRE-MRE saddle.

A little higher now, you can finally see the chute, it bends right slightly.

Our party of 7 split up here as Aaron and Zack headed up the West Face Direct route (http://web.nmsu.edu/~amato/ingrahamguide/N_Rabbit_Ear/N_Rabbit_Ear_master.html). Aaron and Zack just visible gearing up on the ledge.

This shot shows the entrance to Boyer's Chute (the brushy pocket in the center of the photo)

North Rabbit Ear at sunrise on the approach hike. Boyer's Chute is NOT the obvious chute visible in this photo, but is off to the right (almost directly below the summit of SRE in this perspective). The route up Rabbits Ears Canyon, goes far right between the buttress and minor hump of rock on the right side of the photo. Traverse up and left to the entrance to the gully through thick brush after climbing past the hump. (watch for snakes, I stepped on a baby rattler near the entrance to the gully...stepping directly on him may have protected me from a bite)

My father at the first "5th" class portion of climbing

Myself heading down the second (double rope) rappel to the saddle between NRE and MRE via the South Face Direct.

Looking up from the top of the first chock-stone. The rap anchor on the right may be used to protect followers coming up the right (easy) side, but there is another rap anchor on the left that I used to bring folks up the left (harder) side.

Rap anchors for second rappel off NRE via South Face Direct.

Looking out of the chute from just below the chimney pitch. Gives some idea of the angle of Boyer's Chute. I believe that's the Lesser Spire(?) in the center.

This is a funky perspective (stitched photos), but shows the entrance to Boyer's Chute on the left, our descent gully (just right of center), the West Face Direct (center), and both NRE and MRE (center and right respectively). Taken on descent.

Looking directly up at the chimney pitch, and the chockstone at the top. I used this chockstone as a foothold, but in hindsight, I suggest avoiding that option.

If you do not see this on your way to Boyer's Chute, you are off track.

We opted to rappel down the South Face Direct route. Walk down this sloping ledge system. We did a single rope rap from the first station (one bolt and two pitons) to a large ledge system, and a double rope rap from the second station (two bolts) to the saddle between NRE and MRE.

This was where we first roped up. As you can see, a very confident climber could probably manage with no rope for this first section.

Aaron replacing webbing at the first rap anchor on the South Face Direct.

The approach trail just past the mine is marked with a small cairn. Avoid turning towards the mine and walking right up into the gully like some have before.

The view of Rabbit Ears Massif from the first rap anchor on NRE South Face Direct.

Soloed up, but nice to rap down some of the pitches!

Looking up Boyer's Chute to the big chock stone (background just below the level of the orange sling) and the 5.4 crux chimney (below chock stone about level with the base of the largest shadowed cliff)from rap station above the 3rd pitch

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