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Trying to locate a boulder in San Fran

Original Post
TheBirdman Friedman · · Eldorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 65

Hey all,
This may seem like a stupid question, but a while ago one of th "featured routes" was a large overhanging boulder that I remember being in San Fransisco. I think it went somewhere between V3-5 and may have had a "R" rating. In the picture there were a lot of people spotting. It looked like about 10 feet of slightly overhung climbing to a large roof. I know this is a terrible description, but if anyone knows what I'm talking about, help me out. I'm headed to SF in a few days and want to hit that boulder. Thanks.

Brian Snider · · NorCal · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 732

Castle Rock State Park seems to be where most of the featured boulder problems are. As far as in the city most of the bouldering is at glen park but I'm not familiar with the area. Found this, matches the description. mountainproject.com/v/calif…

Robin like the bird · · Philomath, or · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 300

yea , the photo's of Grizzly boulders comes up sometime. The big boulder up there is the star of the show. Great rock, A little to close to the road for me, but it is the bay. Watch out for the poison oak!!!

TheBirdman Friedman · · Eldorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 65

No, unfortunately that isn't it. Maybe my memory is off and it's not in SF. I have scoured the SF database and had no luck...

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

My guess would be Glen Park. I had a friend who grew up in the City and described a problem like that as well as the general nature of Glen Park bouldering. Seemingly little info about that area anywhere.

bognish · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 0

Sounds like the main rock at Glen Canyon. Its listed in the climbing database under SF Bay Area. I haven't been there for a couple years, but the rocks are all in the open in the middle of the park and pretty easy to find with 15 minutes of wandering. You can kind of see them from Google Earth.

steve edwards · · SLC, UT · Joined May 2004 · Points: 645

Glen Park blows, though it is tall and could probably get posed on in a way that makes it look nice. Castle Rock is, by far, the best Bay Area bouldering but you can find some decent scruff in whatever corner of the Bay you happen to be stuck in. Glen Park might be the worst area. If the photo was taken there it's a sandbag. Probably Thornburg trying to get back at me for the photos I had published of Ely.

mucci · · sf ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 655

None of the climbing in SF sucks! What, are you gonna drive an hour or more to CR? what about traffic?

SF climbing is just what it is....City climbing.

The Climb the OP asked about is called "The unnatural act"

Up the hill from the main rock. You are gonna have to try pretty hard up there. V3 moves 15 feet up.

Oh and lets not forget these gems in the city.

Toilet mind - 5.11 15th and noriega on the hill, obvious left facing corner.

Granite boulder on 2nd and howard, 6 routes, 20 feet, and it is in the middle of a office building courtyard.

The slabs on oshaugnassey Blvd above the glen park caynon. 2 bolts for anchors and 3 good slab climbs (for the city).

Beaver street wall- aid lines and free but most people TR
Behind Beaver street wall by the tennis courts- AK rock, 3 routes to solo 25+ feet.

In park merced by SFSU there are 6 perfect hand/finger cracks on the retaining walls on the South side of the complex. All are 5.10 and take a rack of yellow aliens through #2 camelots.

Plenty to scare yourself with in the city.

Brian Snider · · NorCal · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 732

Toilet mind is on 14th and Noriaga. There may also be some other routes over there to. While scouting around I found 1 bolt above one and a ring and pition on another wall. Becareful though I saw a lot of poision oak around there.

steve edwards · · SLC, UT · Joined May 2004 · Points: 645

Hence the mystery over how I ever dragged myself away from the City deepens...

Brian Snider · · NorCal · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 732

Ok so its not epic but I grew op in lower Michigan wich has 1 climbable cliff. And as a new climber its still a load of fun to blow off the gym and hit the local spots after work. Besides its all training for Yosemite. Hell Yea!

Audren · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 0

There is also some good bouldering with sand landings at the north end of ocean beach under the cliff house.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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