Mountain Project Logo

Solid Down Jacket??

Original Post
Matt J · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined May 2010 · Points: 70

I'm looking around for my first down jacket!

I suppose I want one for belaying during the winter.

Any recommendations?

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

RAB Neutrino Endurance is really solid and light...

Jim Amidon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 850

Feathered Friends........

Only complaint.....it's too warm.....

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
Sunny-D wrote:RAB Neutrino Endurance is really solid and light...
+1 or the montbell alpine light. Rab is a bit more serious and the alpine light is well...light.

Wanna define more what you plan to do? Is it ice or cold weather rock climbing etc.
mtoensing · · AZ · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 705

Mont Bell makes great down products. Not bad prices either. I live in the coldest part of the state so I never take off my puffy in the winter.

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

North Face Nuptse

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Other considerations to add...what climate/area will it be in?

If you're ice climbing in a wet and cold climate, a synthetic like the Patagoinia Das, OR Chaos etc might be a better bet.

For ice, I'd especially make sure to get a hood.

And because I can't let a thread go without pointing out the need to do a pre-emptive search...

mountainproject.com/v/climb…

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

Western Mountaineering also makes good down products!!!!

And like others said, get one with a hood (a down filled one,
not just the nylon cover).

Matt J · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined May 2010 · Points: 70

Ill be moving/climbing in Bozeman :)

I am trying to pick this stuff up now, last years models etc. to save some money!

So far ive got baselayers, and a Patagonia Stretch Ascent jacket. I think all i really need is a nice fleece and a down jacket right?!

Evan1984 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 30

If you want a underlayer type down, I've been happy with my North Face 800 fill sweater. People bash their stuff, but I got it for $75, it fits well, is stupid light, warm, and has held up for me.

For a more outer layer type bubble goose, I like the Moutain Hardwear subzero. I have a North Face Himalaya jacket which is just too much for me unless all I'm doing is sitting on my butt in the snow.

Evan

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118
MDJ wrote: Any recommendations?
Read Dane Burns' (very lengthy) blog post and massive review on belay jackets. You'll learn quite a bit. The dude's been climbing for 30 years and is generally spot on.

For what it's worth, I have a Mammut Startus belay jacket. Uses Primaloft One (best synthetic insulation on the market) and I got it dirt cheap from STP (under $100 i think). Is it perfect? Nope, but for the money I paid, I'm quite happy.

EDIT: It's still available for $136. sierratradingpost.com/p/,44…

I have a coupon code good until midnight 7/15 that will give you a whopping 35% off AND free shipping off any order over $125. If anyone needs it, send me a PM!
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
MDJ wrote:Ill be moving/climbing in Bozeman :) I am trying to pick this stuff up now, last years models etc. to save some money! So far ive got baselayers, and a Patagonia Stretch Ascent jacket. I think all i really need is a nice fleece and a down jacket right?!
I wouldn't bother with fleece...go with powerstretch. Breathes better, lighter, warm, fits live a glove. I have the pants w/ either softshell pants or gortex when necessary and a Cloudveil hooded top. Doesn't really get better. Throw some silk or midweight long underwear underneath for the -10 days. Fleece is heavy, hot and bulky.

Fleece's are for wearing to the bar after climbing or for skiiers with their zip in NF jackets.
Matt J · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined May 2010 · Points: 70

Power stretch eh? I have yet to own that kinda garment....

I ended up finding a OR Chaos jacket on geartrade for $55, it has a rip, but I can fix that!

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

You might have some and not know it by that monkier...but trust me it's the way to go. Patagonia, REI, Mountain Hardwear, OR and Cloudveil all make some variant and are equally as good. Plus MH and OR make a setup for if you wear full bibs.

I have the chaos..great jacket, windproof and light. Pretty much good for everything but the days you shouldn't be out there anyways!!

Jim Amidon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 850

The only problem with a thick down hood is you can't hear anything......

But what do I know I've only been ice climbing for 15 years.....

alpinejason · · Minneapolis · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 176
Jon H wrote: For what it's worth, I have a Mammut Startus belay jacket.
Definitely need to order one size larger on this jacket. Very snug fitting otherwise.
Matt J · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined May 2010 · Points: 70
Scott McMahon wrote: And because I can't let a thread go without pointing out the need to do a pre-emptive search... mountainproject.com/v/climb…
Like anyone has anything better to talk about anyways...

And now that we are on the subject, lets get more specific on baselayers!

Ive got a pat cap 3 shirt, looking into a powerstretch, pat stretch ascent shell, and soon to be a OR chaos down jacket. Yay or Nay??
J.B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 150
PumpkinEater wrote:Get one with a hood.
I concur. It's so nice to have, if you need to hear, don't wear the hood on your head. I have a cloudveil enclosure, it's synthetic, basic, and I love it. Got it off of someone from this site.
half-pad-mini-jug · · crauschville · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 1,740
Steve Williams wrote:Western Mountaineering also makes good down products!!!!
Western Mountaineering makes GREAT down products!!!
Brie Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 493

Triple FAT Goose

Albert S Wiley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
Brian Abram wrote: Triple FAT Goose 

Aye Aye, I agree with you. I recently purchase Norden down parka from the Saga collection, get some insight here. It has 680 fill power rating (actually not sure). The down is just awesome. I compared Triple Fat Goose's different models. I liked the leather version too.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Reviews
Post a Reply to "Solid Down Jacket??"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started