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The Emerald Highway
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 6
votes
Routes in The Black Wall
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Ant Farm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Black Mamba T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Cannonball Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cary Granite T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Coffee Achievers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Emerald Highway, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Escape Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Espresso T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Good Evans T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Harry Caray T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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High Variance T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Mer Dascht (We Thirst) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Old Rappel Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Parallel Universe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 R |
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Phil-a-Guster T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rainbow Highway T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Road Warrior T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Roofer Madness T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rusty Dagger, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Seven Sins (Sinners on Sunday to High Variance) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Sinners On Sunday T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Undertow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C0 R |
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Undertow (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1- |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | J. Thompson, D. Haller, B. Collett, July, 2010. P3-6: Greg Cameron & Tom Gibson, 1992 |
| Page Views: | 4,812 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Collett on Jul 11, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route follows mostly continuous cracks for the length of the wall. With a few more ascents, it is a really nice continuous outing.
1) Start up a shallow, left-facing corner. After about 40 feet, it ends at a ledge. Above the ledge is an arch. Follow the arch to its apex, and face climb up to a small ledge above below another arch, 90 feet, 5.10+.
2) Climb over the arch, clip a bolt, and climb left past a second bolt to a shallow, left-facing corner. Follow this until you can step left on to a ledgy system and a two bolt belay, 5.10-, 90 feet.
3) Head towards the large, obvious corner. Climb up into the corner system using a nice hand crack on the left to avoid the blank section in the beginning. Belay at a two bolt belay on the right wall, 5.10, 140 feet.
4) Continue up the crack system passing a roof and belaying at the base of a chimney, 95 feet, 5.10+.
5) Follow the chimney to easier ground, and belay at a grassy ledge, 150 feet, 5.9.
6) Climb straight up over a couple of short walls and find yourself at the base of a chimney after about 80 feet. Follow this to its end, and make your way to the top of the wall, 5.7.
1) Start up a shallow, left-facing corner. After about 40 feet, it ends at a ledge. Above the ledge is an arch. Follow the arch to its apex, and face climb up to a small ledge above below another arch, 90 feet, 5.10+.
2) Climb over the arch, clip a bolt, and climb left past a second bolt to a shallow, left-facing corner. Follow this until you can step left on to a ledgy system and a two bolt belay, 5.10-, 90 feet.
3) Head towards the large, obvious corner. Climb up into the corner system using a nice hand crack on the left to avoid the blank section in the beginning. Belay at a two bolt belay on the right wall, 5.10, 140 feet.
4) Continue up the crack system passing a roof and belaying at the base of a chimney, 95 feet, 5.10+.
5) Follow the chimney to easier ground, and belay at a grassy ledge, 150 feet, 5.9.
6) Climb straight up over a couple of short walls and find yourself at the base of a chimney after about 80 feet. Follow this to its end, and make your way to the top of the wall, 5.7.
Location
On the right side of the Black Wall, there are two prominent roofs that are about 300 feet above the talus. Between the two roofs is an obvious dihedral system. The Emerald Highway follows that system. It starts in a wavy flake system below the dihedral.
Per Doug Haller: the route starts below and to climber's right of both Good Evans and Road Warrior.
Per Doug Haller: the route starts below and to climber's right of both Good Evans and Road Warrior.
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