Type: Aid, 8 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Flyn Brian McCray & Kurt "Burt" Arend, December 2003
Page Views: 7,525 total · 45/month
Shared By: Kurt Arend on Jul 11, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Climbs right out of the middle of the arch. Climb is heads up, with many pitches of long fall potential. Only a few really "dangerous" pitches (whatever that means) but overall classic route. The headwall has a pitch of drilling, we were hoping the seam panned out to no avail. One of the steeper pitches in Zion for sure. 

Descent is best to try and find the top of Shunes Buttress and rap, we didn't and rapped off the back into a wicked slot canyon in a rain storm but that is for another story. 

Please feel free to manipulate any hole on the route. We were low on bolts and rivets so we did a lot of angle holes.

 But please leave your drill holstered while on lead, it is all there just try.

Location Suggest change

Hike up under the arch and start up the obvious crack chimney thing.

Protection Suggest change

60m ropes
2 sets nuts
3 ea TCU/Alien
2 ea .5-4 camalot
1 ea 4.5-5 camalot (old now #6)
8 1/2 angles (2 sawed)
2 ea LA
2 ea KB
6 RURP
16 Beaks

Photos

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