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It's a butt shot, but it shows the line of the first pitch of Alphonse pretty well.  From here, i traversed left to a stance and did a hanging belay because all the gear was knee-height.

Id# 106820790,  Dimensions: 2000 x 1500 - View full size 
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By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Mar 25, 2013

Would you do it differently next time (the belay, I mean) or is that only only option?

By Larry S
Mar 26, 2013

The most recommended way i hear to do it is to do it in a single pitch. Rope drag would probably be pretty bad though. The second pitch was pretty short, i think.

By SethG
Mar 27, 2013

I have done it both ways. The hanging belay isn't great. I wasn't absolutely thrilled with the gear and it isn't comfortable.

Doing the route as one pitch creates bad drag-- the climb does a U-turn through the crux. Maybe someone better than me can avoid it but I was using doubles and still created pretty bad drag at the top.

Still the single-pitch way is better in my opinion. And it's a great climb, beautiful 5.6 corner & traverse and an easyish one-move 5.8 crux.

By slim
Administrator
Mar 28, 2013

one pitch with doubles is the way to go. great pitch, steep and sustained.

By JSH
Administrator
Apr 8, 2013

Both of those options aren't great - the hanging belay is what Seth said, and it's also pretty easy to lock yourself down if you try to link it and fail. A third thing to consider is doing a very short first pitch, then linking the last two.

By Dan Flynn
Administrator
From: MA
Sep 25, 2013

One pitch, long slings, little gear in the corner and traverse = good fun

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It's a butt shot, but it shows the line of the first pitch of Alphonse pretty well. From here, i traversed left to a stance and did a hanging belay because all the gear was knee-height.

Submitted By: Larry S on Jul 9, 2010
On this route:
Alphonse (5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c )