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Longest SPORT Climb in U.S.?
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What is it? |
Adam Stackhouse wrote:This oneBwahahahahha, thats awesome! Seriously though, that looks very comitting and difficult. |
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Betting on this line. Its still not finished but it will be 20-21 pitches upon completion. Looking forward to getting on it. |
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Infinite Bliss in Washington near Seattle. .10b and 23 pitches! |
rick gardiner wrote:Infinite Bliss in Washington near Seattle. .10b and 23 pitches!Yep, that's the one. |
rick gardiner wrote:Infinite Bliss in Washington near Seattle. .10b and 23 pitches!If by "sport" you mean entire pitches with 1, 2 or NO bolts. I've done the route 3 times and can say - It's a good climb but NOT a sport climb. A) Route finding challenges B) Run out pitches C) Rapping challenges and loose rock D) Commitment - it's a LONG day How about this one - still near Seattle. Who's Your Daddy? |
rick gardiner wrote:Infinite Bliss in Washington near Seattle. .10b and 23 pitches!Was that the one Chris Sharma was taking 80-100 foot whippers on? I know he was climbing with a 100m rope. |
Scott McMahon wrote: Was that the one Chris Sharma was taking 80-100 foot whippers on? I know he was climbing with a 100m rope.Sharma's route was Jumbo Love at Clark Mt., NV. 5.15b one pitch 250 feet. |
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ahhh thanks! |
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Might be this one Royal Flush |
Adam Stackhouse wrote:This oneThose drilled baby angles are part of the ladder from the first ascent I think the first half went free and the latter part was too blank and thus the ladder. With that being said I wouldn't trust those things they look rusty and I heard they have some flex in 'em. |
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All of these need natural gear or have long runouts on them which seems to eliminate them from the discussion. However if you are going to include them, why not Galactic Hitchhiker, on Glacier Point Apron in the Valley? |
LeeAB wrote:All of these need natural gear or have long runouts on them which seems to eliminate them from the discussion. However if you are going to include them, why not Galactic Hitchhiker, on Glacier Point Apron in the Valley? Old trip report from Galactic Hitchhiker topoYeah, while not a sport route, it always seemed like a killer line. It is a shame that the first ascensionists never finished bolting the thing. By there own admission there are a few dangerous pitches. |
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I do believe this is it |
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Yep! Squawstruck (22 pitches, 1900 ft, and a lot of bolts) is the longest continually-bolted sport route in North America (I haven't searched for anything like this in Europe or elsewhere, so I can't say much more than that). And it is truly something to behold. The route-setter spent the better part of 3 years putting this route up - roughlyly 95% of it with stainless bolts and hangers. There used to be a fair bit of choss on the route, but after 5 years of wear and tear, the route has really cleaned up! It's quite an experience, and I highly recommend that you make a trip to Utah, soon, for this route (and, if you have time, be sure to find yourself on top of some desert towers en route). Infinite Bliss is a slightly longer route (2600 ft) with a lot of bolts (but definitely not a straight "sport" route). I can't speak from personal experience (although, I hope to change that after a trip back home, to Washington, this summer), but it looks like a sweet route. Yes there are a lot of run-out sections (about 5 pitches don't have any bolts at all, just belay stations), but apparently those sections are relatively moderate where a fall is highly unlikely. That being said, I plan to take a light trad rack with me. https://www.mountainproject.com/v/infinite-bliss/108170867 And then we're left with a bunch of significantly shorter sport routes in the 500-1200 ft range (Nevada Prince of Darkness and Washington's Prime Rib of Goat look cool - what's up with Washington and all these long bolted lines?), and a lot of long trad and alpine routes that I've yet to climb! (you know, Lone Peak Cirque, The Incredible Hulk and other peaks in the Sierras, Full Exxum on the Grand Teton, Devil's Tower, Long's Peak and other Colorado 14ers, The Nose of that one big wall everyone talks about, and that Slab Daddy route, mentioned above - it looks fantastic!, etc.) |
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Price of darkness is annother of those almost a sport climb but no cigar. P1 is straight up trad. its only 5.6 but its still a full pitch of trad to get two the sporty bit. Then p2 or3? is completly mixed. a light rack of stoppers and cams up to .75 green camalot gets it done comfortably. Last time I was there a screw link graced the last bolt before the gear section. That spot where the sportos realize that without a light rack you have to be comfortable soloing 10b |
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How do you define a climb? I could go find a long sport crag and go up and down the routes one by one without coming off and make it 4k+ ft of climbing. |
ViperScale wrote: |
ViperScale wrote: I think that generally a Climb moves in a upward direction, hence the use of the word climb. Of course there are routes that traverse, and even lower in sections, but all with the intention of continuing in an upward direction. Lets not be silly. Squawstruck is in one of my two home crags, but I've never climbed it. I'd like to sometime, seems like it would be fun to just clip bolts on a never-ending upward climb. |
ViperScale wrote: Pretty much how everyone else defines a climb without being semantically pedantic. |
