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Routes in Center Section
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Beginner's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Bolt Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bonehead Roof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cold Turkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hippos on Parade S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hold Me aka The Move S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Lies and Propaganda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Med Dose Madness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Misdemeanor S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mom's Pancake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Rhino Bucket S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tunnel Zone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Glen Cilley |
| Page Views: | 6,110 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Ladd Raine on May 15, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
For me, this climb was one I did once and tried to forget. The climb is awkward in the way it climbs up the sequence of ledges and you are always clipping a bolt strangely.
Clipping the anchors is by far the crux of this climb and shouldn't be attempted by a leader who isn't comfortable at the grade.
(*Added for clarification*- I am simply stating that the final holds are pumpy and awkward to reach. As a fall from the anchors while pulling up slack would be very painful, I suggest someone who's limit is 5.10 try this climb on TR to find the holds and become comfortable with them before s/he tries to lead this one.)
By the way, RhinoBUCKETS is a big of a misnomer. The holds on this route aren't all buckets, some of them can be difficult to hold on to for the grade, especially at the anchor. Although, there is a Rhino-shaped hold on the climb. It is a huge jug that resembles a rhino's horn if looked at the right way.(The previous sentence was added Post-Comment, thank you Chris Duca)
Clipping the anchors is by far the crux of this climb and shouldn't be attempted by a leader who isn't comfortable at the grade.
(*Added for clarification*- I am simply stating that the final holds are pumpy and awkward to reach. As a fall from the anchors while pulling up slack would be very painful, I suggest someone who's limit is 5.10 try this climb on TR to find the holds and become comfortable with them before s/he tries to lead this one.)
By the way, RhinoBUCKETS is a big of a misnomer. The holds on this route aren't all buckets, some of them can be difficult to hold on to for the grade, especially at the anchor. Although, there is a Rhino-shaped hold on the climb. It is a huge jug that resembles a rhino's horn if looked at the right way.(The previous sentence was added Post-Comment, thank you Chris Duca)
23 Comments