Mountain Project Logo

Unaweep bouldering access and info

Original Post
Randall Chapman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 1,532

My name is Randall Chapman, my wife and I own the Grand Junction Climbing Center in Grand Junction Colorado. I recently spoke with Chris Ham and Daniel Gourley from the BLM office regarding the Nine Mile Hill area of Unaweep Canyon and the climbing that goes on there. The first thing they assured me is they are not looking to shut down climbing in this area (this rumor had been floating around Junction) and pretty much all of the access is slated to remain open with a couple of exceptions. The East Creek road is going to be shut down to motorized traffic shortly after it crosses the creek and a parking lot will be constructed there. The other thing is climbing on Fossil Boulder mountainproject.com/v/color… will no longer be allowed as it has the imprint of a dinosaur bone in it that climbers were using as a hand hold. It should be noted that there was talk of shutting down climbing around Fossil Boulder as well but only the boulder will be off limits.

We are working with the BLM and the Western Colorado Climbers’ Coalition to gather information about climbing and parking in the Nine Mile area so the BLM can determine where parking lots, bathrooms, and eventually trails should be built. With the growing popularity of this area the need to establish these things is important so the area doesn’t get destroyed. We understand that people are projecting routes and developing areas and we’re not looking to take away from the secrecy needed to allow you to finish your projects. We are not looking for individual routes as much as boulders or groups of boulders with multiply routes that people will be frequenting. If you have any maps that would be helpful but the best would be GPS readings of the parking, boulders, trails and names that have been given to each area. This information is being gathered to go into the BLMs plan that is supposed to be released in part this fall, after which it will be displayed for review before any action will be taken. The BLM also plans to print out maps with this information on it.

Any info can be emailed to gjclimbing@yahoo.com or you can stop by the climbing gym, we are open from 10am-10pm M-F, 10am-8pm Sat, and 10am-6pm Sun. I work a day job but I’m at the gym after 5pm during the week and most weekends if you want to discuss anything with me directly. You can also contact Chris Ham with the BLM chris_ham@blm.gov, or the WCCC western_co_climbers@hotmail.com.

The BLM has a long standing reputation for keeping areas and access open for climbing, unlike some other government agencies, and I believe this plan will be put together with access in mind. Chris and Daniel mentioned that they are both long time climbers and while they will obviously consider all aspects and user groups I believe they will understand what climbers need as a user group. All I’m saying is, I don’t think this is the man trying to shut us down.

Jon Miller on the WS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 15

Thanks for your work on this! Unaweep is a gem.

Jon

Randall Chapman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 1,532

I put together a list of areas and boulders from the route databases on Mountain Project, and Rockclimbing.com as well as info from Colorado Bouldering 1. I got some GPS locations but we need a lot more. I don’t really boulder outside and I’ve only been bouldering in Unaweep a handful of times and I never knew what I was climbing or what the areas were called. Any info as far as popularity of areas or boulders as well as any boulders or areas I missed would be appreciated. The GPS locations were picked out on Google Earth by Donny Warbritton or myself and many of the areas are easy to pick out I just know what they are called.

Bone Park:
Fossil rock- N38.930066,W108.490194
Plethora boulders (aka gonads)- N38.928979,W108.490666
Victoria’s Secret- Need

Mecca (aka Chinese algebra area, Green-gate, and Overlook):
Parking- N38.890407,W108.507001
Birdhouse Boulder- Need
Chinese Algebra Boulder- Need
Gunny Gold Boulder- Need
Hueco Boulder aka Boulder B- Need
Kleen Kut Boulder- Need
Moby Dick aka Boulder A- Need
Other Side Of Road... - Need
The Pink Floyd Boulder- Need
Sector 1 - Need
Vonnegut Boulder aka Boulder C - Need

Rock Garden (aka Ice Cube Boulders):
Parking- N38.939951,W108.485527
Thor Wall- 38.939851,-108.48424
Faces Boulder- Need
Chiseled Arête- Need
Gash Rock- Need
Deception Rock- Need
Orange Crush Rock- Need
Broken Boulder- Need
Colored Boulder- Need
Striped Rock- Need
Pole Rock- Need

Texas Boulder Area:
Anchor Block- Need
Cancel Christmas Block- Need
Corridor Block- Need
Cow Den- Need
Glory Boulder- Need
Horizontal Crack Boulder- Need
Notorious Boulder- Need
Waves of the Future Boulder- Need

Late Bloomer:

Freight Yard:
Supercheif- Need
The Engine- Need
The Caboose- Need

Bat Cave:
Junior Cave- Need
The Slum- Need

Rock Shop:

Hole in One Boulder:

The Black Wave:
Big Red Boulder- Need
Black Wave- Need
Blacked Out Boulder- Need

Brain Area:
The Brain aka Dr Seuss Cave- Need
Bucket Cave- Need

Pump House:

Silence is Golden Area: N38.968898,W108.467234

East Creek Parking: N38.953185,W108.477995

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
Post a Reply to "Unaweep bouldering access and info"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.