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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Ben Spannuth, Equipped by Will Anglin |
| Page Views: | 4,083 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Jun 11, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
I bolted this on Easter of 2009. Ben Spannuth perfected his cobra strike to snag the FA on May 2, 2012.
It is a difficult and high quality climb. It has 5 bolts of 30 degree overhung granite to a topout. Pinches, crimps, slopers, underclings, mantles, crazy tension moves, dynos, it's all here. Bring your 'A' game!
Jump start to the jug horn and mantle to clip the first bolt. Defy gravity and stand up into a small thumb undercling, and then press into a larger undercling to clip bolt #2. Then climb a V7 boulder problem straight into a V10 boulder problem with a stopper deadpoint right at the lip. Grab the incut over the lip, mantle, and climb unprotected 5.8 slab to the chains.
The higher you go on the slab, the easier it gets, but if you fall, you'll hit the ground. I didn't put a bolt on the slab because the lip is pretty darn sharp and could cut the rope. If you make it to the slab, you shouldn't fall though.... It is not recommended to lower from the chains, that would kill your rope (remember the sharp lip...). Instead, untie and walk off.
Per Trycycle: update: the mantel block at the beginning of the climb has fallen off. The climb still goes, but there is now an intro V11 boulder problem. It is significantly harder now.
It is a difficult and high quality climb. It has 5 bolts of 30 degree overhung granite to a topout. Pinches, crimps, slopers, underclings, mantles, crazy tension moves, dynos, it's all here. Bring your 'A' game!
Jump start to the jug horn and mantle to clip the first bolt. Defy gravity and stand up into a small thumb undercling, and then press into a larger undercling to clip bolt #2. Then climb a V7 boulder problem straight into a V10 boulder problem with a stopper deadpoint right at the lip. Grab the incut over the lip, mantle, and climb unprotected 5.8 slab to the chains.
The higher you go on the slab, the easier it gets, but if you fall, you'll hit the ground. I didn't put a bolt on the slab because the lip is pretty darn sharp and could cut the rope. If you make it to the slab, you shouldn't fall though.... It is not recommended to lower from the chains, that would kill your rope (remember the sharp lip...). Instead, untie and walk off.
Per Trycycle: update: the mantel block at the beginning of the climb has fallen off. The climb still goes, but there is now an intro V11 boulder problem. It is significantly harder now.
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