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Heartbreak June
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Heartbreak Hotel
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Ah Fair of the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Atherolichenous Plaque T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Beta Blocker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Devil in Disguise, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Heartbreak June T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Hypotension T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Monsters Incorporated T V8 7B |
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Spandex (aka Cardiac Arrest) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m), Grade II |
| FA: | Pete Takeda and Lenore Sparks |
| Page Views: | 1,269 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Lenore Sparks on Jul 1, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
This climb is on the prow to the right of Beta Blocker. Begin the climb with a very thin face move boulder problem. Behind you is a large tooth that can serve as a bombay chimney. Move out of the chimney, around the block and into a thin, left facing corner. A lieback to crux sidepulls with sparse pro leads to another crack system to the left. Follow this to a slab that joins with Beta Blocker's hand crack.
The rap station is on the top on an obvious ledge. There is NO fixed gear on this route save the rap station.
The rap station is on the top on an obvious ledge. There is NO fixed gear on this route save the rap station.
Location
It is on Heartbreak Hotel's NE side top the right of Beta Blocker. A huge, nose-like feature makes this route obvious.
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