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> New Wave Wall
Change in Luck
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British PG13
Avg: 1.7 from 10 votes
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | John Fowler, Scott Ayers, Brent Olson |
Page Views: | 1,711 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | iancevans on Oct 18, 2009 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
This route is basically a hard boulder problem (V3/4, IMO) up to a good hands free rest. After that a long, dynamic move puts you onto easier terrain. After the last bolt directly on Change in Luck, it's a long, traversing runout to join Skid Mark at the last bolt and then chains shortly thereafter. The climbing on this runout is very moderate.
Change in Luck currently shares anchors with Skid Mark, around 10 feet to the right and perhaps 25 feet above the last bolt directly on Change in Luck. A spicy runout--a fall near the top could have you swinging hard into the cliff in front of New Wave.
A fun climb worth getting on if you've already tagged some of the better lines on the wall.
Note: the right side of the big hole that you rest in feels pretty rotten--use it gently.
Note: Stick-clipping the second bolt is not a bad idea; very difficult climbing to a difficult clipping position.
Change in Luck currently shares anchors with Skid Mark, around 10 feet to the right and perhaps 25 feet above the last bolt directly on Change in Luck. A spicy runout--a fall near the top could have you swinging hard into the cliff in front of New Wave.
A fun climb worth getting on if you've already tagged some of the better lines on the wall.
Note: the right side of the big hole that you rest in feels pretty rotten--use it gently.
Note: Stick-clipping the second bolt is not a bad idea; very difficult climbing to a difficult clipping position.
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